Who's promoting their brand? INDESIGN counts down the country's top consumer advertisers.

You might be surprised. In a time when many companies are scaling back their advertising expenditures, others are pushing to the forefront to gain valuable face-time with consumers.

For example, last year’s most visible brand selling jewelry, Cartier, earned a visibility index score of 2,958. This year, Cartier, though still No. 1, dropped more than 400 points to 2,500 (with its jewelry and watch pages combined). Meanwhile, Tacori, which dropped only slightly from last year (1,072 score in 2009, compared to an 1,130 score in 2008), surpassed brands like De Beers and Tiffany to become the No. 3 most visible brand.

Our visibility index is based on the amount of advertising pages these brands purchase in national consumer magazines, which is still the best available indicator of visibility. That said, we don’t account for other marketing efforts like co-op advertising, Internet marketing or regional magazine advertising. Never-theless, can that fully explain things like the David Yurman brand plummeting out of the top five with a visibility index score of just 119 (when the brand’s jewelry and watch scores are combined) compared to 1,414 last year?

Other changes in the report were equally interesting. World Gold Council was one of the few brands whose scores rose in 2009, moving into the No. 2 position with a score of 1,249 (up from 1,039 last year). You can also see relative newcomers Pandora and Silpada Designs (the sterling silver brand sold in homes) in the Top 10, with brands like Simon G. and Ritani knocking on the door.

In order to give you a more complete view of the industry, we’ve separated the jewelry and watch scores this year, ranking each category individually. As always, we’ve spotlighted several brands that have done interesting things with their marketing strategies over the past year. We hope you enjoy our third annual look at America’s most visible jewelry brands.

01: Cartier

TOTAL AD PAGES: 164.55
VISIBILITY INDEX: 1351.82
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: W (19 pages)

02: World Gold Council

TOTAL AD PAGES: 105.80 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 1249
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: IN STYLE (13 pages)

03: Tacori

TOTAL AD PAGES: 89.48 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 1072.60
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: COSMOPOLITAN (13 pages)

04: De Beers

TOTAL AD PAGES: 97.84 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 1031.31
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: TOWN & COUNTRY (9.14 pages)

05: Tiffany & Co.

TOTAL AD PAGES: 111.11
VISIBILITY INDEX: 1018.90
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: TOWN & COUNTRY (8.96 pages)

06: Silpada Designs

TOTAL AD PAGES: 31.51 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 612.67
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: IN STYLE, REDBOOK (8 pages each)

07: Platinum Guild International

TOTAL AD PAGES: 48.30 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 587.38
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: IN STYLE (8 pages)

08: Pandora

TOTAL AD PAGES: 22.00
VISIBILITY INDEX: 409.18
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: GLAMOUR (8 pages)

TOTAL AD PAGES: 54.47
VISIBILITY INDEX: 398.75
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: TOWN & COUNTRY (12.98 pages)

AFTER WATCHING THE PEOPLE at Roberto Coin build the brand into one of the most recognized in the world, one might expect the company to allow momentum to carry it through the recession while tightening its purse strings. But then again, if Roberto Coin took that approach, the brand wouldn’t be where it is today.

“This fall, we find ourselves on a new playing field,” says Peter Webster, president and co-founder of Roberto Coin. “We are making every effort to support our retail network and provide them with all the necessary tools for a successful season.”

To that end, the company is rolling out several initiatives as fourth quarter 2009 approaches, one of which is a new advertising campaign once again featuring Christy Turlington-Burns. And, the campaign will again involve cause marketing, this time in support of CARE — an organization for which Turlington-Burns also serves as a frequent ambassador.

“As a model, mother and CARE spokeswoman, Christy is an inspirational role model to all women,” Webster says. “The campaign imagery evokes a sense of hope meant to contradict the trying economic times. White was chosen as a thematic role in the six different images to achieve a feeling of femininity, newness and optimism.” The campaign will run in a variety of magazine categories, including fashion, travel, design, epicurean and lifestyle, as the company believes in reaching its customer across the full spectrum of her interests.

In support of the campaign, new point-of-sale materials and custom catalogs will be delivered to Roberto Coin’s retail partners, featuring several of the brand’s collections including its latest, CapriPlus. “Inspired by the breathtaking sunsets of the Isle of Capri, CapriPlus is the first Roberto Coin collection offered in a variety of materials to suit clients’ tastes and budgets, such as 18K yellow gold, ebony wood, ruthenium-treated silver or polished silver,” Webster says. Several launch parties throughout the US are planned to celebrate the new collection, and Roberto Coin himself will make personal appearances as well.

10: Gucci

TOTAL AD PAGES: 41.95
VISIBILITY INDEX: 370.63
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: TOWN & COUNTRY (6.78 pages)

11: Swarovski

TOTAL AD PAGES: 25.49 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 306.79
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: ELLE (9.26 pages)

12: John Hardy

TOTAL AD PAGES:31.32 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 305.98
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: W ( 5.32 pages)

TOTAL AD PAGES: 24.50
VISIBILITY INDEX: 282.94
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: IN STYLE (6.40 pages)

RRELATIONSHIP AND INTEGRITY have always been associated with the Simon G. brand, as Simon Ghanimian’s studio creates its own alloys and casts its own metals, uses only natural diamonds and gemstones, and offers customized designs to customers. As such, while the direct, dry humor of the brand’s new campaign may be shocking to some, it fits the company’s goals to a T.

Ads in the campaign feature a piece of beautifully-photographed Simon G. jewelry under a spotlight, each with its own tag attached. Written on the tags are statements, attributed to Simon G., that include the following:

•“Marriage is a compromise. But you can postpone that until after the wedding.”

• “Make sure he sees what you did with the settlement.”

•“I’m much cheaper than a therapist.”

• “If he wants you to be a trophy wife, he should dip you in gold.”

Will you see frank statements like these attached to other jewelry campaigns? Probably not — but that’s what Simon G. is counting on, says Marketing Coordinator Brooke Brinkman. “These tags say we’re bold and realistic, and consumers remember them,” Brinkman says. “Brands in fine jewelry catalogs don’t necessarily have a lot of retention. But with these types of statements, we hear them being repeated, and retailers are telling us that consumers come in referencing the tags.”

The campaign, which launched in June, has drawn mixed reaction from retailers. Some are reluctant to run the bolder statements, but those happen to be the ones that get the most response, says Brinkman. Other retailers are excited that the campaign is so memorable, and have requested materials to show in light boxes and around their stores.

“We want to separate our brand from every other jewelry brand that’s being advertised. We want to be seen as ahead of the curve and unafraid to step out and do something different,” says Marketing Director Zaven Ghanimian.

In terms of media placement, the brand is shifting away from middle-class publications like Cosmopolitan and Marie Claire, and into higher-end pubs like W magazine. “Today, the middle-class consumer doesn’t have the credit to make the purchases they have in the past, so we’re going after a higher-end consumer now,” says Brinkman, who adds that pieces featured in the campaign start at $1,200 and go up to $14,000 retail. “We’ve studied the readership of each publication we’re in and have chosen pieces that are in line with those readers’ purchasing power,” adds Ghanimian.

14: Van Cleef & Arpels

TOTAL AD PAGES: 30.77 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 275.20
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: NEW YORK MAGAZINE (4.12 pages)

15: Le Vian

TOTAL AD PAGES: 33.00 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 270.72
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: HARPER'S BAZAAR (22 pages)

TOTAL AD PAGES: 31.30
VISIBILITY INDEX: 241.38
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: ELLE (8 pages)

RITANI IS ON THE MOVE. During a year when other brands settled in for a hard economic winter, Ritani struck out across the frozen fields in search of new markets. The company originally made a name for itself through the incorporation of micro-pavé into its engagement rings more than 10 years ago, and then again through its PerfectMatch wedding band technology. More recently, Ritani has overhauled its consumer website and added a new B2B component to simplify communication with retailers. Additionally, the company moved into a new 17,000 square-foot location that has drastically improved production, including a 70 percent reduction in the time it takes to complete a special order.

On top of these operational and online improvements, Ritani has re-energized its advertising campaign. “For many years, Ritani ads were primarily made up of large, bold, product-only shots. Over the course of the past three years, we’ve shifted direction in order to highlight the fantastic emotion that is generated during the moment a woman receives a piece of Ritani jewelry,” says Tim Spanjer, director of marketing.
The move has paid off for Ritani and its retail partners. “The response has been overwhelmingly positive. Perhaps this year more than any other, Ritani retailers have been calling to request information on products featured in our ads, due to a higher than ever consumer response,” Spanjer says.

Consumers may also be responding to an advertising presence that’s almost double what it was in 2008, when the company ran 12 fewer pages in national magazines. “The difficult economic times are testing the strength of national brands (jewelry brands in particular) so the burden is on us to keep our image foremost in the minds of our consumers. The way we have done this is to prioritize and find ways of getting the most mileage out of our dollars, and, as you can see, we were very successful,” Spanjer says.

Look for Ritani to continue to expand its image into a lifestyle brand through a new fashion collection, and for that to be reflected in the ongoing “emotional scenario”-based campaign.

17: Stephen Webster

TOTAL AD PAGES: 22.54 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 210.98
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: HARPER'S BAZAAR (5.48 pages)

18: Marco Bicego

TOTAL AD PAGES: 22.04 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 173.50
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: ELLE (7.26 pages)

19: Tous Jewelry

TOTAL AD PAGES: 15.19
VISIBILITY INDEX: 169.28
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: LUCKY (5 pages)

20: Hearts on Fire

TOTAL AD PAGES: 19.19 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 154.70
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST (4 pages)

21: Verragio 

TOTAL AD PAGES: 13.00 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 147.12
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: ELLE (8 pages)

22: Christopher Designs

TOTAL AD PAGES: 29.04
VISIBILITY INDEX: 146.03
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: ROBB REPORT (10.46 pages)

TOTAL AD PAGES: 15.85
VISIBILITY INDEX: 137.85
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: HARPER'S BAZAAR, ELLE (7 pages  each)

HANS STERN, a Jewish German émigré to Brazil who launched H. Stern in 1945, was once dubbed “the king of colored gems” by the New York Times. His wholesale company, originally begun to market Brazilian gemstones to the world, grew to include 160 retail outlets. Stern expanded out of the franchise model to add more points-of-sale in 2003 and began establishing partnerships with jewelry retailers worldwide.

Today, two years after Stern’s death at the age of 85, the company is getting back to basics through a campaign that departs from the previous model-based advertising to refocus on the product itself. The campaign, which is being introduced in the September/fall issues of Harper’s Bazaar, W and Elle, “provides a glimpse into the jeweler’s bench, emphasizing the artisanal craftsmanship of each piece of jewelry or ‘work of art,’” says Ronaldo Stern, CEO North America for H. Stern. “The campaign celebrates the inspiration, history, and craftsmanship behind each collection and each piece.”

Unlike many other jewelry brands, Stern says, the H. Stern brand “has always been about the self-purchasing, strong, independent woman.” Stern contends that although the dollars for such purchases may have dwindled, there will always be a need for self-gratification. “These days, there is a demand for value, and H. Stern pieces offer both extrinsic and intrinsic value,” he says.

The company is now in the process of re-evaluating its media plan for 2010, but Stern maintains that the brand “will not deviate from our identity and strategy in a way that would negatively affect brand equity for short-term remedies.” H. Stern has recently launched a collection based on a collaboration with the Brazilian modern dance company, Grupo Corpo, in which the jewelry is inspired by different elements of dance. Additionally, the company will open an H. Stern store at the end of 2009 in the newest Las Vegas Strip development from MGM Mirage, CityCenter.

24: Scott Kay

TOTAL AD PAGES: 27.16
VISIBILITY INDEX: 134.16 
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: MODERN BRIDE, BRIDE'S (12 pages each)

25: Chanel Jewelry

TOTAL AD PAGES: 15.34 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 133.39
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: TOWN & COUNTRY (3 pages)

26: Trollbeads

TOTAL AD PAGES: 9.66 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 130.09
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: LUCKY (3 pages)

27: Pomellato Jewelry

TOTAL AD PAGES: 11.89 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 121.04
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: New York Times Magazine (5 pages)

28: Nelson Jewelry

TOTAL AD PAGES: 13.10 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 115.15
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: BRIDAL GUIDE (5.32 pages)

29: Chamilia

TOTAL AD PAGES: 6.33
VISIBILITY INDEX: 114.59
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: OK WEEKLY (2 pages)

30: Teno Jewelry

TOTAL AD PAGES: 15.65 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 110.52
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: TOWN & COUNTRY (5.89 pages)

31: Elle

TOTAL AD PAGES: 10.59 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 110.36
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: ELLE (10.26 pages)

FROM THE VERY BEGINNING, Damiani has been linked inextricably to the exceptional people who wear its jewelry. In the early part of the 20th century, the art deco-inspired jewelry designs of Enrico Grassi Damiani caused Italy’s elite to take notice, and he soon became the personal jeweler of several influential families. In more recent times, the Damiani brand — whose jewelry is still handmade by Italian craftsmen — has become a favorite of American celebrities. From Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston, to Gwyneth Paltrow, Sophia Loren, and the current face of the line, Sharon Stone, the exposure generated by celebrity support is incalculable.

Naturally enough, the company plans to continue to capitalize on its famous friends where it can have the most impact — consumer magazines. “Our creative has always lent itself to print media, magazines specifically,” says Damiani USA President and CEO Antonio Pavan. As in previous years, the brand’s campaign continues to run in upscale publications like Town & Country, Robb Report and W.

The latest wrinkle added to Damiani’s advertising features the company’s newest designs, the Metropolitan Dream Collection. “The supporting creative shows major iconic cities around the world from sunup to sundown,” Pavan says. “We have a matching interactive component to go with this campaign on our website.”

Aside from its advertising efforts, Damiani also garners a great deal of visibility through public relations and marketing partnerships. This year, the company is partnering with Mandarin Hotel Group, an award-winning luxury chain of five-star hotels and spas. With a minimum purchase of $6,000 of Damiani jewelry, the client will receive a voucher for deluxe accommodations for two for a two-night stay at one of Mandarin Oriental’s properties in the Americas.

33: Loree Rodkin Jewelry

TOTAL AD PAGES: 10.60
VISIBILITY INDEX: 106.48
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: ELLE (3.26 pages)

34: Montblanc

TOTAL AD PAGES: 10.09
VISIBILITY INDEX: 100.05
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: TOWN & COUNTRY, ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST, VANITY FAIR, W (2 pages each)

35: Dolce & Gabbana Jewelry

TOTAL AD PAGES: 8.00
VISIBILITY INDEX: 99.71
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: ELLE (2 pages)

36: Jacob & Co.

TOTAL AD PAGES: 9.15 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 99.57
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: HARPER'S BAZAAR, IN STYLE (2 pages each)

37: Mauboussin

TOTAL AD PAGES: 9.00 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 94.25
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: HARPER'S BAZAAR, New York Times Magazine (3 pages each)

38: Carrera Y Carrera

TOTAL AD PAGES: 8.00
VISIBILITY INDEX: 92.70
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: ELLE, HARPER'S BAZAAR, IN STYLE (2 pages each)

39: Charriol

TOTAL AD PAGES: 11.36 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 91.35
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: TOWN & COUNTRY (3 pages)

40: David Yurman

TOTAL AD PAGES: 16.52 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 86.44
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: ROBB REPORT (5 pages)

TOTAL AD PAGES: 7.35 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 86.30
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: ELLE (3.26 pages)

SOME JEWELRY COMPANIES try to attract customers early in the spending cycle, during their engagement ring search. But to the folks at Leslie Greene, those companies are already way behind the curve. They say reach consumers when it really makes a difference — like before they’re even teenagers.

“We’ve widened our target outside the luxury market to appeal to the ‘tween’ audience with trendier pieces that still maintain our signature design aesthetic,” explains Liz Dallas, director of marketing.

It may sound crazy, but the tween market has a lot of spending power, Dallas says. “It’s also ground zero for many fashion trends that trickle up,” she adds. “To this end, we’re taking a more youthful and fashion-forward audience into consideration for some of our silver collection designs, as well as marketing to them via social networking.”

In so doing, Leslie Greene is establishing itself firmly as a brand ahead of its industry, seeking out markets and avenues for reaching them that have previously been untapped. Today’s customers like to shop online and educate themselves about their purchases — so Leslie Greene is opening on online boutique to complete the experience. “We’re also on Facebook and Twitter, and work with a multitude of blogs,” Dallas says. “We constantly change our Facebook fan page to share the latest Leslie Greene news, giveaways, and featured designs. We also keep Twitter up-to-the-minute, and redirect all followers to our website so that they can find a retailer. It’s the best way to interact with our fans, as well as the media.”

The advertising campaign has been tailored to match the youthful approach and fashionable nature of the brand, Dallas says. She adds that widening the scope of the brand’s outreach has won it new fans. In 2010 and beyond, look for collections in new areas such as bridal, colored gemstones, and spiritually-inspired designs, along with special marketing efforts to support these launches.

42: Mikimoto

TOTAL AD PAGES: 12.94 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 85.11
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: ELLE (3 pages)

43: Penny Preville

TOTAL AD PAGES: 9.89
VISIBILITY INDEX: 82.16
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: TOWN & COUNTRY (2.89 pages)

44: Aaron Basha

TOTAL AD PAGES: 22.74
VISIBILITY INDEX: 79.86
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: ROBB REPORT (9 pages)

45: Until There's a Cure Jewelry

TOTAL AD PAGES: 4.15 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 79.65
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: ESPN MAGAZINE (1.58 pages)

46: Mastoloni

TOTAL AD PAGES: 11.89 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 76.21
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: HARPER'S BAZAAR (8 pages)

47: Dior

TOTAL AD PAGES: 11.91 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 73.85
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: TOWN & COUNTRY (3 pages)

48: Ippolita Jewelry

TOTAL AD PAGES: 13.04 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 73.44
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: TOWN & COUNTRY (5.89 pages)

49: Yossi Harari

TOTAL AD PAGES: 12.61 
VISIBILITY INDEX: 70.48
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: TOWN & COUNTRY (4.18 pages)

TOTAL AD PAGES: 11.0
VISIBILITY INDEX: 68.21
MOST POPULAR MAGAZINE: TOWN & COUNTRY (8 pages)

IMPULSE PURCHASES ARE DOWN, which is bad news for many designers — but not Bellarri. The company contends that its unique gemstones, cutting techniques and concave channel settings make its jewelry the perfect solution for any customer searching carefully for a meaningful piece.

The latest options? “Romantic, with lots of flowers,” says the designer, Bellarri, referring to the Marietta Collection and the recently-released Mademoiselle Collection. She also believes that bands will continue to stay hot, and hopes to capitalize with the new collections. “This is the year of the band (rather than a stone on a shank), and our new bands are easy to wear and uniquely cut,” Bellarri says.

The advertising campaign stakes its power on the inherent beauty and easily distinguishable look of the jewelry pieces themselves. On the subject of changing the creative, Bellarri says, “We’re recognizing success from our advertising, so there’s a temptation not to break it. The big thing is to show everything as a collection, which makes it easier for retailers to sell the pieces.”

In addition to placing ads in national magazines like Town & Country, Elle, Vanity Fair, and Harper’s Bazaar, Bellarri offers co-op dollars to retailers who include Bellarri products and the brand’s logo in their advertising.

The company is also partnering with stores on innovative events, including costume parties, charity events and a Town & Country store event.

WATCH COMPANIES have also been hit hard by the recession, with several high-end brands dropping down the visibility index. Here are the most visible watch brands from July 2008 through June 2009.

01 ROLEX
02 BREITLING
03 MOVADO
04 BULOVA 
05 CARTIER WATCHES
06 TAG HEUER 
07 CITIZEN
08 SEIKO
09 PATEK PHILIPPE
10 OMEGA
11 BELL & ROSS
12 CHANEL WATCHES
13 TIMEX
14 GUCCI WATCHES 
15 JACOB & CO
16 RADO  
17 VICTORINOX SWISS ARMY WATCHES 
18 IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN
19 RAYMOND WEIL
20 BALL
21 LONGINES
22 BREGUET 
23 EBEL
24 MONTBLANC WATCHES 
25 PULSAR 
26 DIOR 
27 COACH WATCHES
28 CASIO
29 TISSOT 
30 PIAGET
31 ORIS
32 ANNE KLEIN WATCHES 
33 HUBLOT
34 WITTNAUER 
35 BERTOLUCCI 
36 DOLCE & GABBANA
37 PANERAI
38 BAUME & MERCIER
39 FENDI WATCHES 
40 BREIL WATCHES 
41 HERMES WATCHES
42 GUESS WATCHES 
43 ROBERTO CAVALLI  
44 ZENITH  
45 BEDAT & CO  
46 VACHERON CONSTANTIN 
47 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS WATCHES 
48 NIXON 
49 PHILIP STEIN 
50 AUDEMARS PIGUET

This story is from the September-October 2009 edition of INDESIGN

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