Hard, enduring and naturally white, platinum shouldn’t be the mystery it often is.

A study by Condé Nast Bridal Group revealed that 81 percent of brides prefer platinum for their engagement rings. With more than 2 million weddings a year, and platinum 2.7 times more profitable than white gold per unit, sales associates are in a wonderful position to increase their earnings while helping their customers get the metal they want — platinum.

Below are the answers to the most common technical questions I’ve received from sales associates.

What is the difference between platinum and white gold?

The biggest differences are that platinum is a naturally white metal, and is more dense and durable. The difference in cost is primarily due to platinum’s rarity and the higher level of purity in platinum jewelry.

I thought platinum was not supposed to scratch?

All precious metals scratch. Platinum is one of the most durable of metals and loses little metal with wear and displaces when scratched, as opposed to white gold, which loses a sliver of metal with every scratch.

Is platinum jewelry softer than white gold jewelry?

Platinum jewelry’s softness/hardness is determined by alloy and manufacturing process. Pt950/Ruthenium, for example, is 135 HV (Hardness in Vickers) compared to 120-130 HV for a typical 18K white gold. Keep in mind that hardness is not equated to strength and durability, only its resistance to scratching. Regardless of HV, the endurance of platinum gives it a wearable, heirloom quality.

Does platinum lose its shine?

All precious metals eventually show wear. However, the enduring nature of platinum sets it apart from other metals, as it loses very little metal with wear and it maintains its volume. It is also platinum jewelry’s nature, especially rings, to develop a warm patina as it records a lifetime of wear and memories on its surface. Proper cleaning and/or buffing keeps it looking beautiful as it ages.

Is it difficult to work with?

While it melts at a much higher melting point than other metals and can take up to twice as long to polish, it is possible to make the most intricate and beautiful pieces in platinum, and there are many techniques that can only be done with platinum. To learn more, visit PGI’s trade website, PlatinumGuild.com and take their free online sales training courses at PlatinumLearning.com.

Jurgen Maerz , technical consultant to PGI, is a certified master bench jeweler and author of The Platinum Bench. 

This story is from the September 2010 edition of INSTORE

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