This time last year, jewelry insiders were talking about the return of two antique cuts, the marquise and the pear, as trends to watch in bridal rings. Perhaps one or the other would take the place of the long-popular antique cushion, which had begun to slow down?

Lorraine DePasque

Contributing writer for INSTORE and INDESIGN.
 
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his time last year, jewelry insiders were talking about the return of two antique cuts, the marquise and the pear, as trends to watch in bridal rings. Perhaps one or the other would take the place of the long-popular antique cushion, which had begun to slow down?

Now, with days left in 2015, the question is: Did such trending actually happen? Looking back, at one point, marquises made some welcome noise — mostly when more brands began to create non-traditional engagement rings by setting the center stones east/west instead of in the expected north/south way.

Yet, although that was occurring, I’ve intentionally continued to keep my eyes on pears — especially because, since mid-year, an increasing number of jewelry artists have been featuring teardrop cuts in all fashion categories, particularly pendants and earrings. And, mind you, not just diamonds, but natural stones of every variety and color.

Simultaneously, I’ve noticed the broadened collections of women’s wedding rings designed with pear cuts. It’s interesting to me that, unlike a bridal design with a cushion (the pear’s antique sister), a halo isn’t de rigueur. Also unlike the cushion, with a pear center gem set atop the shank, it can be in different directions: conventionally north/south, atypically east/west, or avant-garde-esque on-a-slant. The very proportions of pears in the new bridal rings have also caught my attention. Some of my favorites are the pudgier ones — those with plenty of width in their middle. Overall, it’s encouraging to see that, given the growing market of young bridal customers who are looking for distinctive betrothal rings, the modern pear cut engagement designs point in that direction.

 

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