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18 Apr
Wednesday, 18 April 2012 07:47

Jewelry’s on the Road to Emerald City

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Since early this year, I began to see more designers focusing on emeralds for their new collections. I’m not talking about those who do mostly “high jewelry” — no, I mean the brands that typically concentrate on fashion.

Frankly, at first, it seemed unlikely. Because when it comes to contemporary design from those who target the trendy and stylish, emeralds ... well, they usually just don’t make the cut.

Still, unpredictable as the move first appeared, I can now assure you that it is happening. At the upcoming shows, you’ll see more than a few fashion-forward lines spotlighting this age-old gem that, according to legend and lore, was collected by Cleopatra. Like Cleo, I like it, too, but I have my own reasons. For one thing, as I said, it’s “new” in the sense that modern jewelry (in the last few decades) has pretty much ignored the “old” gem. (It kind of reminds me of the way designers resurrected chalcedony last year.) For another, as fashion becomes more and more obsessed with the Art Deco period, emerald certainly seems to be a “natural” — given that emerald was one of the favorites of that era. And finally, if you recall, the recent ready-to-wear shows for fall showed us that the fashion community is pretty jazzed about jewel tones--especially emeralds and purples. Designers like Carolina Herrera, Jason Wu, Miu Miu, and Yves Saint Laurent made good cases for green. And from Lanvin — my personal favorite collection this year from the Paris shows--forest green was the standout color. 

Lanvin Fall 2012 RTW Collection.

Last modified on Wednesday, 18 April 2012 08:01
Lorraine DePasque

Lorraine DePasque is a contributing writer for INSTORE and INDESIGN. She is also a freelance journalist who has covered the fine jewelry industry for more than two decades. Having seen thousands of collections, met thousands of artisans, schlepped through hundreds of trade shows, judged hundreds of design competitions, and writtten several thousand jewelry articles, she has one simple request: “Please don’t tell me something is innovative when it isn’t.”