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Ask INSTORE: September 2007



Exactly why “Can I help you?” is so bad, industry “shrinkage” rates, when customers turn down custom designs, and more.

[h3]What’s Wrong With This?[/h3]

[dropcap cap=Q.][h4][b]At a presentation in Vegas I heard Kate Peterson say with a rather incredulous tone that she’d visited stores and been greeted with: “Can I help you?” Errm, what exactly is wrong with “Can I help you?”[/b][/h4][/dropcap]

[dropcap cap=A]Of course, we knew the answer, but thought it best to ask Kate. Here’s her response: “First and foremost is that when you sound like a salesperson, you are treated like a salesperson. And the most instinctive thing we say to every salesperson is ‘just looking.’ As a greeting, there’s nothing at all personal or interesting about it. If a neighbor knocked on your front door, would you open it and say, ‘Can I help you?’ Speak to me like I’m a person, not a credit card number. In every case, a warm smile and direct eye contact are essential. The best greetings are the most sincere and personal. These are the most disarming and the most likely to get the customer’s attention and let them know that they are about to have a unique and special experience. Something as simple as ‘Hello, Welcome to XYZ’ can be very effective. Recently, I visited a candy store where a cheerful man who obviously enjoyed his job greeted me. He started with ‘Welcome!’ with a big smile on his face. As he got a little closer to me, he spied my hand and said, ‘Young lady, does your grandma know you’re walking around with her favorite crystal doorknob on your hand?’ Unorthodox but highly effective. He made me relax, let me know he’d noticed something about me and made me feel like a person instead of a ‘customer.’ “[/dropcap]


[h4][b]Although we have a freestanding store in the better end of town, with upper-class clients and a dedicated staff that has been with us for many years, we are still concerned about the amount of inventory that goes missing every year. What is the industry standard for loss written off each year, especially with regard to independents?[/b][/h4]


We asked the INSTORE Brain Squad how they fared in this matter and the most common response was “less than 0.5 percent” (see page 18), which seems to match existing industry data. Getting accurate information about this issue, however, is difficult because many jewelers are reluctant to divulge information about shrinkage at their stores, says Bob Frank, vice president of the Jewelers Security Alliance. “I can tell you that there are large chains which indicate shrinkage of less than 1 percent while others, not many that I know of, may go as high as 3 percent,” he says, adding that the JSA doesn’t break down figures for chains and independents. “I believe it is an accepted fact by most of the security directors I know, from other industries as well, that as much as 60 percent of shrinkage can be attributed to employee theft,” he says, adding that “if your reader is trying to determine how much shrinkage is acceptable, the answer is none.”

[componentheading]MARKET RESEARCH[/componentheading]

[h4][b]I am trying to plan an event for newly engaged couples to promote wedding bands in our Ohio store. I would like to do a mass mailing, however I’m running into problems finding a mailing list. Do you have any advice on where to find good ones?[/b][/h4]

As you may have well discovered, an Internet search will turn up thousands of companies offering lists, with everything from gift buyers in Switzerland to jewelry buyers who take regular Caribbean cruises — everything that is except the few thousand prospective jewelry buyers you’re looking for in your neighborhood. A better strategy is to find a good broker who knows your local market well. Try Google again but this time type “mailing list” + broker + Ohio into the search field and see what comes up. A good broker should be able to find you the right, up-to-date list, so you’re reaching real prospects and not 75-year-olds about to celebrate their 50th wedding anniversary.


[h4][b]We’re planning a big sale to clear some inventory. Any tips?[/b][/h4]


When it comes to sales, price matters, says Bob Nelson, president of Power Retailing and author of 1001 Ways To Reward Employees. So be prepared to discount aggressively, especially on anything that’s been hanging around close to a year (and go easy on your newer fast movers). Use a similarly aggressive approach to your advertising. At the very least do a mailer of your entire customer list. (Give your old customers a chance to re-acquaint themselves). Direct-mail and newspaper ads should mention the type of sale, starting date, categories offered and markdown percentages. Radio and cable ads are good ways to ramp up the “Act Now” urgency.

Finally, make sure you’ve got big signage in the store. Once the sale begins, Nelson advises you keep an eye out for slow-moving categories. Change the displays and take even bigger markdowns if there seems to be little interest in a particular product. Don’t make customers play the stupid retail game “find the price” and the sales tag. Throughout the sale it is important that customers do not think the best items have already been sold.

Display fixtures must always appear to be as full as possible. If you need to buy additional merchandise for the sale, keep this in mind: The first few days will have the largest customer impact. Nelson’s last piece of advice: While still in-season, off-price merchandise can be in high demand. “Don’t expect your suppliers to volunteer it; you’ll have to ask what they have. If you drop the hint that you have an open-to-buy for immediate goods, you will probably discover some desirable merchandise,” he says.

[componentheading]CUSTOM DESIGN[/componentheading]

[h4][b]We do custom jewelry and quite often use the customer’s diamonds and gems. We always have the customer come in and approve the wax before we cast it. But what do you do if, having cast and set the job, the customer says she doesn’t want it?[/b][/h4]

If the customer has signed off on every step and you’ve given her a thorough explanation and shown her the CAD photos from various angles, there should be no room for argument, says Jennifer McFadden, who runs a custom design studio in Red Bank, NJ. “It’s hard for the customer to say it’s anything but they changed their mind,” she says. If they accept that is the case then McFadden suggests you credit the gold for the first design, but charge the customer for any expenses, like a second wax or additional gold.


“I sometimes charge to set the stone for the second time — it depends on how the customer behaves. If worse comes to worse, you can cut the stones out and return them to the customer and refund the gold value, but I wouldn’t refund any of the labor or tradework expenses,” she says. To prevent such a situation occurring, communication from both sides is key to make sure expectations are understood. A good tip is to try to build a sense of anticipation ahead of the completion of the design through the way you speak about it. Unveil the piece with a little fanfare and excitement. The positive environment helps build desire and lessens the chance of doubt overwhelming the customer.

[span class=note]This story is from the September 2007 edition of INSTORE[/span]



Wilkerson Testimonials

To Generate Funds for a Jeweler’s Move and Remodel, Wilkerson More Than Delivered

Even successful jewelers need a little extra cash to fund expansion plans—especially when there’s inventory on hand that’s ripe for liquidation. For Beaumont, Texas-based jeweler Michael Price, co-owner of Mathews Jewelers, it was the perfect time to call Wilkerson. Price talked to other jewelers as well as vendors for advice during the selection process and decided to go with Wilkerson. And he wasn’t disappointed. When it comes to paying for the move and expansion, Price says the road ahead is clear. “When we close on the next two stores, there’s no worries about finances.”

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What to Do with a Conservative Business Partner, How to Set Goals You Can Achieve and More of Your Questions Answered

Plus, how to get your staff to actually listen more.




Apart from telling them to talk less, how do I actually get my staff to be become better listeners?

Robin Dreeke, a former head of the FBI’s Behavioral Analysis Program, says the secret lies in an appreciation that good listening is more than simply shutting up. “Listening is having nothing to say. There’s a difference there. If you just shut up, it means you’re still thinking about what you want to say. You’re just not saying it,” he writes in It’s Not All About Me: The Top Ten Techniques For Building Quick Rapport With Anyone. The reason is that customers can tell you’re not focused on what they are saying. Instead, Dreeke suggests, do this: “[A]s soon as you have that story or thought you want to share, toss it. Consciously tell yourself, ‘I am not going to say it.’ All you should be doing is asking yourself, ‘What idea or thought that they mentioned do I find fascinating and want to explore?’” Get your sales staff or jewelry designers to take such an approach in their interactions with customers, and the results could potentially be revolutionary. No sales pitches. Just responding to what customers are telling them. That’s listening.

Year after year, I’ve carefully plotted SMART goals for my staff, but we never attain them. Any idea what we’re doing wrong?

To the rational mind, it’s hard to argue with the SMART mnemonic — Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Relevant, and Timely — when it comes to goals. At the heart of it is “achievable,” after all. Except, of course, when it comes to managing humans, it’s best to be wary of anything that gives off the clinical odor of rationality. In the place of SMART goals, we thus propose an experiment for you: This year, try some Vague and Seemingly Irrelevant goals (yep, the sort of targets that can’t even be counted on to form a clever acronym). Clear goals such as “Increase sales by 20 percent” can be motivating, but also set extra hurdles to fail at, which can throw the human mind into a tizzy (like a yellow Post-it sticker on your mirror that says “Don’t eat a cream bun today!”) Vague goals, on the other hand, can be liberating. As for “seemingly irrelevant,” the key word is the first: “seemingly.” This is management at a higher level. Identify the secret drivers to business success, be it the cheery baristas at Starbucks or actions in your store that result in a positive review on social media, and you may actually get the specific financial results you desire. In his book The Antidote: Happiness For People Who Can’t Stand Positive Thinking, Oliver Burkeman recounts the story of a Formula One pit crew whose members were told that they would no longer be assessed on the basis of speed targets; they would be rated on style instead. Instructed to focus on acting “smoothly,” rather than on beating their current record time, they wound up performing faster. It’s a seductive story. Could you do the same with your staff?

What’s a good rate of growth to aim for?

Some growth is necessary for any business to keep up with competitors, benefit from economies of scale and provide new opportunities for its people, but there are more important things you should probably be focusing on. As Brazilian businessman Ricardo Semler noted in his book Maverick, the only things in the world that grow for the sake of growth are businesses and tumors. “Growth needs to be balanced with margin, operating expenses and inventory levels, otherwise it can result in working harder but having nothing to show for it,” notes David Brown of the Edge Retail Academy. Worry about cash flow, profit, taking care of your staff and customers, and basically just doing a good job. Growth should then take care of itself.

I had an embarrassing encounter with a customer earlier this week, and now I can’t get it out of my mind. It’s tormenting me. Help!

The old-school psychoanalyst would say we need to revisit this in punishing detail (these thoughts of perfection, where do they come from?), but it doesn’t sound like you want to go there. In place of that approach, we recommend substitution (come up with a funny version of the story) or distraction. The latter gets a bad rap, but recent studies have shown it’s actually pretty effective. Want to forget that screw-up at work? Do what Gary Gordon of Samuel Gordon Jewelers used to recommend after a sale went badly and go polish silverware for 30 minutes. Or start plotting a complex dinner tonight. Your brain has trouble focusing on more than one thing at a time, so a new action interferes nicely with recollection. And running the same movie reel over and over in your head really helps no one.

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Handling the Salesperson Who Bombed at Christmas and More of Your Questions Answered

Plus, what’s a fair repair warranty?




After reviewing my sales team’s performance over the holidays, I found I have one who underperformed. She’s a lovely person and tries to implement the training we give her, but her numbers just don’t improve. Do we just persist with training?

It sounds like she has the right attitude and work ethic to succeed, just not in sales. Almost anyone can learn how to describe a product’s features (the knowledge), they can even learn how to ask the right open-ended questions to elicit a customer’s exact needs (a skill), but they’ll never learn how to push that prospect to get excited about jewelry and to commit at exactly the right moment. That is a talent some people just seem to be born with, says Marcus Buckingham, a leader of the play-to-people’s strengths school of business management. “In the minds of great managers, consistent poor performance is not primarily a matter of weakness, stupidity, disobedience, or disrespect. It is a matter of miscasting,” he says. You’ll be doing both your store and this woman a possibly life-changing service by forcing her to apply her talents and strengths in some other field.

Any thoughts on how to breathe some fresh air into our business? We need to shake things up.

Every good idea requires not only a fresh catalyst, but also a new way of looking at things. In the words of design consultant Tom Kelley, you want to achieve “the sense of seeing something for the first time, even if you have actually witnessed it many times before.” That explains the success of asking new employees (about a month after they’ve been added to payroll) what changes they would make to the way your store is managed. Constraints, such as radically slashing a budget for a certain department, are another well-proven way of generating new ideas and inspiring creativity. Reconsidering an issue in a different physical context seems to help, as does picking some specific type of person — a doctor, an astronaut or a historical figure — and imagining what they’d do in your situation. The key is to shift perspective as randomly as possible.

What is an acceptable warranty on a customer’s repair?

A one-year warranty on repairs from defect is the norm, according to Blaine Lewis, a master diamond setter and metalsmith. “For example, to replace a Tiffany head in four or six prongs, your store would guarantee the setting and the stone for replacement up to one year from service if, with normal wear, a problem occurs. The warranty should state that the guarantee is not applicable if abuse beyond normal wear is at fault.” Lewis says to make sure your repair prices are high enough to let you provide a strong guarantee, which can give you a competitive edge. Keep in mind that while you do offer a strong warranty, you’ll find that you seldom have to honor it (and maybe never if you’re really, really good).

Should I encourage my sales staff to use mimicry to build rapport with customers? It seems too obvious and manipulative.

If you’re worried about getting caught, take comfort in studies that show that most shoppers are actually really bad at noticing it. In his book Honest Signals: How They Shape Our World, Alex Pentland cites research showing subjects identified mirroring of their words and body movements only about 10 percent of the time and mostly only when it was a really unusual gesture. The students also liked the mimicking agent more than a neutral one, and rated him or her as being friendlier as well as more interesting, honest, and persuasive. Just adding mimicry, the research found, made a sales pitch 20 percent more effective. We humans like people who are like us, and whether it’s social background or word choice, emphasizing this similarity improves social relations. Besides, if your salespeople are paying such close attention to everything a customer is saying, they may just discover exactly what it is that customer is after and provide excellent service, which can’t be a bad thing.

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How To Decide Between Equal Job Candidates, Splitting Staff Chores and More of Your Questions Answered

Plus how to market your engraving capabilities.




I have two good candidates for the position of sales associate, but I can’t decide between them. Can you suggest a tie-breaker?

Toss a coin and let fate be your arbiter. If they’re both equally appealing candidates and you can’t reduce the uncertainty by doing further research or interviews or trial runs, then your decision doesn’t much matter. That likely sounds like rash advice, but this paralysis you’re experiencing has a name: Fredkin’s Paradox. The computer scientist Edward Fredkin summed it up as, “The more equally attractive two alternatives seem, the harder it can be to choose between them — no matter that, to the same degree, the choice can only matter less.” To be sure, it will probably turn out to have mattered in hindsight, but by then it’ll be too late. Given that you’re unable to know how things will turn out, overthinking this one — or any similar tough choice — is futile.

How do you share the chores among sales staff fairly and in a way that is easy to enforce?

Store consultant David Geller suggests breaking your staff into groups and rotating the responsibilities. “Put some easy chores with some bad ones like vacuuming and cleaning the bathroom,” he recommends. The people whose names are under the different groups of chores (see table) do them for only one week, and then they move onto the next group of tasks. This shares around the bad and light chores and also makes it easy for the store owner to raise the issue when a job needs doing. “After doing this, I no longer complained to a person; I complained to a group,” Geller says. “If I go out and see the glass in a showcase is dirty, I don’t expect everyone to clean it, just Group 2.’”

I recently purchased an engraving machine. Any ideas on how I can market it?

One of the biggest mistakes jewelers make is keeping their engraving machine in the back room, says Annette Peloquin, marketing manager of Signature Engraving. Putting the engraving machine in the front of your store, even if it’s just for special events like Mother’s Day and Christmas sales, has a “curiosity” factor that will attract new clients into your store. Also, regular direct-mail pieces with coupons or discounts on engraving services are another way to promote your services. “Be sure to aggressively promote the wide range of engraving possibilities,” such as logos and photos engraved on charms, she says. Hand out flyers to bridal shops and bridal planners that may wish to engrave picture frames or champagne glass or guest book foiling. Also, says Peloquin, engraving corporate gift items for small-to-medium-sized businesses can be another lucrative sideline.

I found a honey of a deal at an estate sale, but I’m worried about paying so little for a piece worth far more. Are there any state or federal laws regarding the purchase of jewelry that is marked at a grossly understated value?

While laws vary widely between different states and municipalities, Elly Rosen of the AINetWork’s Gems & Jewelry Trade Reference says, “We may seek guidance from the general principles involved.” For Rosen, the simplest answer is that “we can buy as low as we wish and make as much profit as we can … so long as we do nothing to deceive or take advantage of the seller.” Estate sale buying is the easiest to answer as it’s a free and open public sale with the seller in control. In such a situation, Rosen says, “We can offer as low as we wish and it’s their option to accept. If it’s an auction and our low bid gets the hammer — it’s ours to resell at whatever profit we can fairly obtain. If we’re on the street and someone offers to sell an item far below its value, we can accept their offer. We don’t know each other, so there’s nothing leading them to believe we have special knowledge they might otherwise rely on.” However, when buying over the counter in your store, things change. “[Customers] may believe they can rely on our knowledge, so greater care is needed not to say or do anything implying low value. They ask for $50 for a $1,000 item, we can accept their offer.”

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