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Designer Profiles

Designing Lives: Ray Griffiths

Crownwork, a sense of humor and a retail sensibility characterize this Australian designer.




RAY GRIFFITHS’ New York City studio, with its direct view of the Empire State Building, feels like a creative sanctuary at the top of the world. The career that brought him to that rarefied spot, however, began Down Under more than 40 years ago. His jewelry training started when he was a teenager. In his native Australia, he repaired the vintage treasures of some of Melbourne’s most venerable families. Today, he creates a new generation of heirlooms drawing on that early experience. His signature crownwork — a grid-shaped pattern that carries through all of his work — is a technique derived from antique jewelry construction. Insisting that he’s “better off being in demand rather than overproduced,” Griffiths eschews selling his jewelry in department stores in favor of working with independent boutiques exclusively, and wouldn’t dream of resorting to mass production. Along with one associate who’s worked with him since the very beginning of his business, Griffiths makes each piece that comes from his atelier in the sky.

Ray Griffiths interview and profile

Suite Memories

“One of my earliest memories of jewelry is of a suite of pieces that had been in the family for a few hundred years. My mother and her sister inherited it. When there was a big event like a family wedding, relatives would push them together to take a picture. The photo was of the jewelry, more than my mom and aunt. Early on, I understood that the intrinsic value of jewelry was important. That translates to why I make a quality product now. It’s my job to make something that people will enjoy in the future.”

Tough Break

“When I started my jewelry apprenticeship [at 15] I was handed a beautiful cabochon opal. I pinched it between my fingers, it fired out of my hand, dropped to the floor and broke in two. It belonged to a customer and was worth an absolute fortune. After that, I was terrified of opals. If anyone handed one to me, I would break out in a sweat. That was 43 years ago. I’ve only done a few opal pieces ever, starting about three years ago. I decided, ‘It’s time to let it go, Ray. Move on.’”

Welcome To New York

“With a partner, I had a small boutique in Sydney called Rox. I loved it and built a pretty groovy enterprise over nearly 20 years. But for ages I’d wanted to come to New York and figured I had one more go left in me. I packed everything I owned into a giant container and shipped it to New York, and I arrived in the city with two suitcases. After waiting and waiting for my container to arrive, I realized it had been stolen! I lost my entire life’s work … every photo … it was all gone in one fell swoop. I was totally busted.”

Forging Ahead

“I worked in a clothing store for a year to rebuild my wardrobe and buy jewelry equipment. Then, for 10 years I worked seven days a week: four days in my studio, and three at [jewelry boutique] Fragments. All along I knew wanted to go back to manufacturing — to have a little couture atelier. Someone once told me, ‘to be successful in New York, you have to fit into the market and create something nobody else can do.’ I was trained to do crownwork during my apprenticeship and I hadn’t seen it anywhere else. It’s a technique that takes the weight out of European headgear, like tiaras; otherwise it could be quite heavy. I decided to go historical … or hysterical, depending on how you see it.”

The One And Only

“I stick to crownwork because it is my signature, and I can interpret it in any style: It can suit 1950s Princess Grace of Monaco, or look old Egyptian or like a 14th century pontiff’s ring. Creating pieces that aren’t heavy is cost effective, too. You can sell luxury without being outrageously expensive. People say I don’t stamp my work, but I do. The crownwork is my stamp. It’s all trademarked. My work is unique, so I protect it. Could I do a whole different line that has nothing to do with crownwork? Yes. And I’m thinking about it.”

Everything Must Go

“Even if I don’t have a store anymore, I’m a real retailer. If it’s not bolted down, I’ll try to sell it. Once during an appearance at a store in New Orleans, the shoe department was busy and no one was looking at my jewelry, so I sold a woman three pairs of shoes! I couldn’t stand on the sidelines and not help. The reason I’m so focused on the quality of my jewelry is that I can feel good about selling it. It’s easy to be a good salesman when you’re selling a good product.”

Q&A: Getting Personal With Ray Griffiths

What’s your secret talent?

“I can shear a sheep with hand shears. I’m not as fast as I used to be, though.”

If you could time travel, where would you go?

“I’m very inspired by the British Regency period: the 1840s through 1850s. The world was modern then, so it wouldn’t be too hard to adjust.”

What’s the best advice you’ve ever received?

One word: Focus!

If you could try another career, what would it be?

“I’d be an architect. Architecture inspires me and the work I do now.”

What’s your dream travel destination?

“I really want to go to St. Petersburg and Lebanon. Beirut, even after so much destruction, is supposed to be incredible.”

The Work: Jewelry From Ray Griffiths

Halo ring from Ray Griffiths

Crownwork cocktail ring with cushion-cut natural honey zircon (3.90 TCW) and pavé diamond surround (0.44 TCW) set in oxidized silver. MSRP: $5,490

Crownwork earrings from Ray Griffiths

Pear shape crownwork earrings in 18K yellow gold with triple white topaz drops. MSRP: $3,950

Crownwork disc necklace from Ray Griffiths

18K yellow gold 20-inch asymmetrical crownwork disc necklace. MSRP: $4,170

Crownwork shank shield ring from Ray Griffiths

Crownwork shank shield ring in 18K yellow gold with opal, bezel-set ruby and orange sapphires set in oxidized silver. MSRP: $8,130



Wilkerson Testimonials

When It’s Time for Something New, Call Wilkerson

Fifty-four years is a long time to stay in one place. So, when Cindy Skatell-Dacus, owner of Skatell’s Custom Jewelers in Greenville, SC decided to move on to life’s next adventure, she called Wilkerson. “I’d seen their ads in the trade magazines for years,’ she says, before hiring them to run her store’s GOB sale. It was such a great experience, Skatell-Dacus says it didn’t even seem like a sale was taking place. Does she have some advice for others thinking of a liquidation or GOB sale? Three words, she says: “Wilkerson. Wilkerson. Wilkerson.”

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Designer Profiles

Victor Velyan: Rock-n-Roller Still on a Mission to Shake Things Up




Since his youthful quest for rock ’n roll stardom in Hollywood, Victor Velyan has shaken up his life many times.

To supplement the rock ’n roll career, Velyan ran errands for a jeweler. He had an artistic inclination, so after the idea of a music career had run its course, he signed on as an apprentice for the master jeweler for two years. The jeweler was a tough teacher, telling Velyan he would never amount to anything and not letting him even touch anything for months. Still, the first time Velyan made a piece of jewelry with his own hands, his teacher cried.

Velyan became very successful as a designer, diamond setter and bench jeweler, but his early career was spent making jewelry for other designers. His business was growing rapidly but — still in his 20s — he was both bored and burned out, when he went on a safari with friends in Africa. When he got home, he was compelled to go back. “I had fallen in love with Africa, which happens to a lot of people the moment they set foot on that continent,” he explains.

He left a partner in charge of the business, bought a one-way ticket to Zimbabwe and spent the next 12 years leading safaris.

Eventually, he returned, got married, and tried to behave like “a responsible adult.”

The turning point in his relationship with jewelry came the moment he perfected a proprietary patina technique he had experimented with for some time. He diluted metals like copper — often waiting a year or two for the copper to dissolve in acid — and then painting that copper and acid mixture on silver. He discovered that it brought the copper back to life from mineral to metal and created interesting stains on the pure silver he loved to work with. He uses a green patina, a brown patina and an antique ivory patina. The green patina in particular is called a “living” patina because it continues to evolve with the wearer. “It’s an Old World line made with simple, handmade tools and that patina on top of everything,” he says.

“Finally, I had created something I was proud to put my name on. That was the drug I had been searching for.”

“I wasn’t sure how the industry would receive that — fine jewelry with green stains all over it. Literally, it looks like it came out of a shipwreck.” But it caught on quickly after one jewelry storeowner took a chance on it.

Once it did take off, the sky was the limit as far as his imagination was concerned. “I went nuts with it,” he says. “I came up with so many designs that I couldn’t keep up.”

“Finally, I had created something I was proud to put my name on. That was the drug I had been searching for. Since that day, I have been super-excited about work. I can’t wait to get up in the morning and get my ass to work.”

He also adapted his designs into gold for people who didn’t get the shipwreck vibe, or said they don’t wear silver.

“But my passion is still for the really cool lady who will wear that piece — that looks like it came from Cleopatra’s jewelry collection — with jeans and a T-shirt.” 

By crafting his own unique pieces with the quality of timeworn relics, the restless artist had at last found the key to his creative passion and a cure for boredom and burnout.

“I love colored gemstones,” he says. “But I’m still a bench guy. I love to sit at the bench and pound things. Everything is handmade. There are no CAD/CAMS, no programs. Everything looks like it’s a thousand years old. Metalsmithing is probably still my favorite part.”

Ring with 14.80-carat cabochon paraiba tourmaline with diamonds (0.88 TCW) in 18K gold, $92,400

Bracelet with pearls and diamonds (3.19 TCW) with 24K gold and 18K gold, $38,500

Ring featuring a freshwater pearl surrounded by diamonds (0.33 TCW) in 24K gold and sterling silver with green patina, $11,000 

Q&A With Victor Velyan: Expanded Online Content

What is your secret talent?

 I cook. That’s my talent and my hobby. I only took one cooking lesson in my entire life, but I can come and find whatever is in your refrigerator – old vegetables – and create a gourmet meal. I can also eat in a restaurant and identify seven out of 10 spices in a dish mankind of come close to it and make it.

What other hobbies have you pursued?

I’m an avid scuba diver and I have dived around the whole world, remote places where you use a dugout canoe and have a 12 year old as a guide. I have always wanted to see the migration of hammerhead sharks, where there are thousands in the water. I tried it for many years unsuccessfully and finally found them seven or eight years ago in Mexico. I found the entire migration, and I got bit by one of those hammerheads. It wasn’t the end of the world. It was a scratch. But when I surface, my arm won’t stop bleeding. I take a picture and send it to my agent and her first reaction is not how are you, but what happened to all the artwork (on my tattooed arm.) I did enjoy that experience.

What piece or pieces of jewelry do you wear all the time?

 I wear a leopard claw around my neck that I made a gold cap for many years ago. My life has been very interesting and Africa was a big part of it. I also wear a rosary that I made with red spinels that is so freaking unique. Twenty one matching red spinels from Burma; it took me seven years to collect those. I wear that at least once a week.

What do you like to shop for?

I collect other artists, other jewelers, paintings. I also paint and sculpt myself. I’m very involved in the art world from performing arts all the way to still life.

What are some of your inspirations?

Architecture, music, nature, travel, unique cultures, history and fine art.

Are you the most interesting man in the world?

My life has been very interesting, and I do drink Dos Equis.

When did your artistic talent first make itself known?

When kids were making snakes out of Play-Doh in kindergarten, I was sculpting an elephant.

Where did you grow up?

I grew up in Hollywood. You’d see me walking down the Sunset Strip with a bottle of Jack Daniels. That’s what I was doing in the ’80s.

This article originally appeared in the November 2017 edition of INSTORE.

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Designer Profiles

Lori Friedman: Feel-Good Pieces for Customers Seeking Something Different




When Lori Friedman designs jewelry, she shows her true colors. The signature of her line is the carefully chosen, custom-cut gemstones she uses in her elegantly organic pieces, which reflect natural themes in eclectic color combinations.

Friedman took a break from her career as a graphic artist to raise three children. During that hiatus, she also designed a line of jewelry, which was picked up by Saks Fifth Avenue and Mitchells.

When her youngest went to college last year, she launched  her Water & Ice line in gold and made her trade-show debut at JA New York in July, where she won the Mort Abelson New Designer of the Year award. She also exhibited at Metal and Smith in August.

“My designing is not based on a trend but on a lifestyle,” she says. “I like to design feel-good pieces that define a unique sense of style for people who are looking for something different.” 

Amuleto Collection lapis horn pendant with Ethiopian opal, fire opal and diamonds set in 14K yellow gold, $3,100

Provence Collection 14K brushed yellow gold hoops with tanzanite, moonstones and diamonds, $2,860

Organic-shaped chalcedony drop pendant with ruby, pink sapphires, blue sapphires and diamonds set in 14K rose gold, $3,800

Stacking bands in brushed 14K yellow gold with moonstones, diamonds and tanzanite, $925-$1,350



Q&A With Lori Friedman: Expanded Online Content

How does painting influence you?

Painting in watercolors has taught me to try colors that I never would have thought would work together. I found in juxtaposing the unexpected that the natural beauty of the gems is highlighted; they catch a woman’s eye and draw her in on a visceral level. My paintings have this fluid, watery look to them. I wanted to achieve that transparent fluidity in the jewelry pieces to make it look almost like they are watercolors. 

Describe your design process.

I’m fascinated with gems, and while searching for gemstones, I am visualizing the design prior to sketching. Often the colors and textures of the stones themselves inspire me. I use hand-selected, custom-cut stones, so each piece is unique.

Favorite gemstone?

When I see fire in a stone, it excites me. My favorite is opal and it just so happens to be my birthstone. 

How versatile is your jewelry?

My collection revolves around pieces that complete a woman’s look—she can wear a crisp white shirt, a flowy dress or a cashmere sweater and have no trouble finding one piece to go with all three looks or a selection of pieces to mix, match, layer and stack.

What is the role of the amulet?

People are attracted to meaningful pieces that tell a story. A stone with power or a symbol with power. 

Your favorite piece of jewelry?

A brooch given to me by my grandmother. It contains a hand-painted portrait of my grandfather that she purchased from a street artist in Italy.

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Designer Profiles

Designing Lives: Irene Neuwirth

How a self-proclained free spirit turned a talent for color into ringing success.




Irene Neuwirth profile shot

IF EVER THERE’S a role model for pursuing a dream, it’s Irene Neuwirth. With no formal training and a handful of beaded necklaces that showed her talent for combining colors, her jewelry made its way into one of the biggest stores in the business. She hasn’t lost any momentum since. Her haute bohemian collection — awash in a precious palette of tourmalines and turquoise, sapphires and pearls — garnered a Council of Fashion Designers of America Award last year and a growing number of celebrity fans. And while she’s amazed by the growth of her collection, she’s after the next milestone. “I’m happy where I am, but not completely, which is how I keep myself motivated.”


“I was a wild child and free spirit … always full of big ideas and very creative. As a kid, I went everywhere with boxes of beads and crayons and paints, and in college I would make jewelry for friends. After graduation, I started teaching horseback riding and my dad said, ‘Absolutely not. Find a new dream.’ Later, when I told him I had decided to design jewelry instead, he said ‘Not a chance. Find another dream.’ My dad is very sarcastic and I adore him. He’s thrilled that everything worked out.”


“When I first started out, I called the Barneys switchboard and asked the name of the jewelry buyer. I sent her 10 pieces I had strung from semiprecious and vintage beads I bought from a store in Santa Monica. In the package, I enclosed a note in magic marker saying, ‘I hope you love it.’ After that, I just kept calling until someone answered. I said I was planning to be in New York the next day and wanted a meeting. Miraculously I got one, and I immediately got on a flight. I still remember what I wore. I thought it was the chicest outfit of my life: a Michael Stars T-shirt with a Rozae Nichols skirt and clogs. The Barneys team seemed to like how excited and sincere I was and took a risk with me. That was my first account.”


“When I got back to Los Angeles [after meeting with Barneys], I found an old GIA professor who taught me one-on-one how to do wax carving and metalsmithing and stone setting. He thought I was an absolute lunatic. I told him, ‘I want you to teach me everything you know … in a week.’”


“Instead of becoming conservative with my jewelry when the financial crisis came along, I went totally wild. I figured if someone were going to buy only one thing, it would be a special piece — not something everyone else had, too. I loved stones like chrysoprase — even though it wasn’t very popular — and opals, which people were afraid to use. It didn’t occur to me that someone might be afraid of color. I love mixing colors and patterns and thought other people would, too. It’s an advantage to break the rules. I mix really fine emeralds with not-so-fine turquoise. Maybe if I grew up with a jewelry background, I would’ve known it was the wrong thing to do.”


“My jewelry has become more red carpet and celebrities have become more willing to take risks; they’re less conservative than they used to be. Red carpet 100 percent makes a difference. I used to roll my eyes at that part of the business, but it’s been really valuable. When we post a celebrity picture on social media, one of our stores will often request the piece, and I have it sold like that.”


“I love [6-year-old Labradoodle] Teddy so much. He’s like a human in the shape of a dog. He’s become the face of the brand. I made an engagement ring for a friend, and to thank me, he made a portrait of Teddy draped in my jewelry. I loved the way it looked, so we ended up putting it on everything. I thought Lizzie [Communications and Brand Development Director Elizabeth Dowling Kaupas] was going to kill me, but the mileage we’ve gotten out of it is amazing.”


“Winning [the 2014 CFDA Swarovski Award for Accessory Design] was amazing. I felt like part of the accomplishment was making the acceptance speech. My biggest fear in life is speaking in front of other people. Getting up there and being able to give a speech made me think I could get through other big things in life. I went to media training for weeks out of fear that I might possibly win. I wanted the accomplishment but I didn’t want to go up there!”

Getting Personal With Irene Neuwirth

What’s your dream destination?

“I want to go on an African safari more than anything in the world. It’s something I will absolutely do at some point.”

What’s your guilty pleasure?

“I love cheeseburgers. I would eat them every day of the week if my body would let me.”

If you could time-travel, where would you go?

“To the time before the Internet was available on airplanes. That invention took away the most peaceful time in my life.”

Do you have a secret talent?

“Wiggling my ears one at a time.”

Name a goal that has nothing to do with jewelry.

“I just want to be a good person and stay humble and grateful.”

The Work: Jewelry From Irene Neuwirth

Necklace from Irene Neuwirth

18K yellow gold necklace with chrysoprase, rose-cut lapis, aquamarine,
tourmaline, turquoise, Akoya pearl, tanzanite and Colombian emerald.

Cuff from Irene Neuwirth

18K yellow gold cuff with green tourmaline

Earrings from Irene Neuwirth

18K rose and white gold earrings with pink tourmaline and full-cut diamonds.

Ring from Irene Neuwirth

18K yellow gold ring with aquamarine and diamond pavé

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