As a jewelry designer throughout the 1990s, whose stepfather worked the diamond business and in my late-teens taught me about the 4-C’s, the myriad shapes and the cyclical nature of diamonds and who introduced me to the major retailers when I launched my collection, I could relate to mentorship and nurturing of a new generations entering the jewelry industry either in the family business or striking out on their own. I also had a best friend who helped me launch my collection and was invested in it as I was, creating the shipping boxes and packing them until 2am, working long hours and days at trade shows and her knack for keeping me sane through my second trade show in a blizzard and when one of my biggest retailers claimed Chapter 11. Between my stepfather and my ride or die business partner and friend, I have felt what it is like to be taken under someone’s wing, and to work with someone who is equally invested in growing a business. I have also covered many of these designers/brands when I held the position of senior editor from 2008-2013 at INSTORE and INDESIGN magazines, and their stories have stayed with me.

selim mouzannar

Sonia came at the book from her perspective and explains, “Throughout my 20-year journey as a writer and editor, I’ve often reflected on how many of the artistic talents I have encountered had someone by their side— quietly or visibly—helping them flourish. When I began writing about jewelry over eight years ago and as the EIC of “Rapaport Magazine” for more than seven years, I was drawn to the many duos and generational businesses that shape this industry. What captivated me most was how many of these partnerships are led by women—a refreshing contrast to other sectors I have covered.” She continues, “When personal bonds meet creative purpose, something extraordinary happens. These pages are filled with joy: the joy of finding a kindred spirit, of building on a family story, and of shaping tomorrow’s heirlooms” Sonia and I have laughed, teared up, and generally been taken in by the heartfelt and honest stories we have heard during our journey to engage you in the narratives at the core of the jewelry industry—the teams that have helped each other grow, learn, and create with love for the craft and for each other. This book invites you into the worlds of the talents featured — their highs and lows, trepidations and triumphs, and the tales that are interwoven in their jewelry.

sorellina

So on that note—I invite you into some of the most entertaining parts of the behind the scene stories through quotes and tidbits from designers and brands throughout the book, alongside some of their striking jewelry.

Dynamic Duos

Coomi Bhasin & Sahil Bhasin Relationship: Mother and son, Coomi Jewels

“Once on a bus, the woman next to me had a mole with long hairs and crumbs stuck to them. I quickly took out my sketchbook—my constant companion—and sketched a pair of earrings. A few months later, Sahil called out, “Mom, we have a problem! People magazine is on the phone; they’re publishing a photo of Cameron Diaz wearing the ‘mole earrings’ and want to know the inspiration.” Knowing I’d tell the truth, he refused to hand me the phone. We brainstormed, and since the crumbs became diamonds on gold wires, Sahil decided on a name. When the full-page spread ran, it said, “Cameron Diaz in Coomi’s ‘Fireworks Over New York’ earrings.” We still laugh about it. But for us, it reflects that there’s beauty in everything if we look for it, “ Coomi says, smiling.

Coomi’s Charm Necklace. 20K necklace with gem-set and enamel charms.

Dynamic Duos

Tiffany Chao & Sarah Fitzpatrick Relationship: Friends, Auroro
“Sarah and I met in high school in 1998. During the first week of school, my math class schedule was changed, and I walked into my new class three days late. I apologized to the teacher for my tardiness, but before I could even sit down, Sarah suddenly stood up in the middle of class. Without missing a beat, she exclaimed, “I know you! You’re Matt’s friend!” Already embarrassed by my late arrival, being called out in front of everyone made me wish I could disappear” Tiffany relates. Sarah jumps in “I remember being a little less… disruptive. Either way, that moment sparked a friendship that has only grown deeper over the years. From high school through college and beyond, we’ve been by each other’s sides through life’s ups and downs.” However they did share a mistake them made early on, “In our first year, we didn’t realize filing taxes was part of the business—a rookie slip-up.” Says Sarah.

AURORO’S Dream in Technicolor Ring. One-of-a-kind toi et moi 14K ring with pink sapphire and grey spinel in signature mismatched ribbed setting.

Dynamic Duos

Jane Taylor & Cleo Zancope Gnatek, Relationship: Mother and daughter, Jane Taylor



Cleo lets us in on a mishap, “In 2015, I built a new e-commerce site to reach customers nationwide. I got excited about custom orders but quickly realized I had a lot to learn. I kept sticking my foot in my mouth and saying we could make things without speaking to my mom. It was a crash course in being helpful to clients without overpromising deliverables.”

Jane Taylor’s Cirque Large Square Stacking Bands. 14K gold with sapphire, tanzanite and tourmaline.

Dynamic Duos

Joy Haugaard & Sarah Haugaard Relationship: Siblings, Lionheart
Joy shares a story which was concerning then but humorous now, “We were headed to a trunk show, excited and ready to go, when our flight got canceled at the airport. The agent started rebooking us, and we were so busy that we didn’t think to check our tickets. We boarded the plane and got comfortable. As we were about to take off, Sarah suddenly looked at her ticket and yelled, “OH MY GOD, WE’RE GOING TO MISSISSIPPI!” Somehow, instead of booking us to Jackson Hole, Wyoming, the agent had booked us to Jackson, Mississippi. We couldn’t get off the plane, so we landed in Mississippi and had to stay there until early morning to catch a flight to Jackson Hole. It was a blend of absolute panic, embarrassment, and uncontrollable laughter. “

Lionheart’s Per Sempre Octagon Pendant. 18K gold pendant set with tourmalines.

Dynamic Duos

Todd Pownell & Debra Rosen Relationship: Husband and Wife, Tap by Todd Pownell

Debra explains, “We have been together for over 20 years and have been married since 2013. Our relationship is that of complementary adversaries. Todd excels as a craftsman, gemologist, technician, and setter; my focus is as an artist, sculptor, and advisor. Although we occasionally switch roles, our partnership consistently propels us forward in our craft, allowing us to continuously learn from one another. It’s never boring around here.” It’s not boring at home either, Todd relates, “ Debra probably has more cookbooks than we have jewelry books, making the kitchen her workshop. Often, I am left guessing what’s actually edible in the fridge with Debra’s fermenting projects and mysterious conglomerations bubbling in jars.”

Tap by Todd Pownell’s Pin-set Diamond Rings. 18k gold rings
with diamonds.

Dynamic Duos

Nicole Carosella & Kim Carosella Relationship: Siblings, Sorellina
Kim describes an early experience, “I once opened my wallet to pay for coffee and discovered I had casually tucked a parcel of emerald baguettes in with my loose change. My friends still tease me about it—apparently, most people don’t carry around precious gemstones like they’re quarters.”

Sorellina’s Classic Guitar Pick Earrings. 18K gold earrings with carved malachite
and diamonds.

Dynamic Duos

Sinork Ağdere & Lena Ağdere Sedaka Relationship: Father and Daughter, Lord Jewelry

Sinork explains, “You can be working on the most intricate part of a design and, suddenly, a gemstone or a delicate component flies off your bench and you spend the next 20 minutes crawling on the floor trying to find it. And it’s not just stray gems I have to watch out for—my dog, Fin, once decided to ‘help’ by swiping a jewelry pouch off my desk. I caught him just as he was about to trot off with it, looking way too proud of himself. Thankfully, no jewels were harmed, but ever since, he’s been under strict supervision in the studio—his taste is a little too refined!”

Lord Jewelry’s The Secret Garden Pendant in 18K gold, enamel, and diamonds.

Dynamic Duos

Rhonda & Tiffany Bartolacci, Mother & Daughter, Borgioni
Tiffany remembers, “We were asked to dress Pearl, the wife of Slash from Guns N’ Roses—an icon I grew up loving. Arriving at their house, I spotted a man in the driveway and naturally searched for Slash’s signature big hair. Instead, I saw a guy with a small, slightly greying bun—Slash without his ‘show’ hair. Inside, I laid out the jewels for Pearl, who introduced herself and immediately stripped down to a very thin thong, running around trying on outfits and jewels. Slash made a comment about her lack of clothing, and her kids ran through the living room. The afternoon was wildly entertaining—one for our history books.”

Borgioni’s Diamond Snake Huggies. 18K gold earrings set with diamonds.

Dynamic Duos

Monica Rich Kosann, Rod Kosann, Relationship: Husband & Wife, Monica Rich Kosann
Monica shares, “We actually met at a gym in NYC. I rarely tell people this.” Rod adds, “Our first date was the same day our oldest daughter was born years later. Talk about karma!” And continues, “Monica brings an everyday glass-half-full perspective to balance my occasional half-empty POV, which is an incredible advantage
in our business and
our marriage.”

Monica Rich Kosann’s Special Edition Locket Necklace. 18K gold necklace set with a cognac diamond and white diamonds

Generational Gems

Demetra Lalaouni, Third generation, CEO International, Lalaounis
Demetra recounts, “To ensure we had the jewelry DNA in our blood, our father Ilias Lalaounis took all four new-born daughters to the workshop before coming home from the hospital.” And adds, “My sisters and I always knew that we would join the family business. It wasn’t a matter of if, but when.”

Lalaounis Aurelia Articulated Earrings. 18K gold and diamond earrings.

Generational Gems

Martin Klein & Mark Klein Second and third generation, CEO/President and Vice President , Julius Klein
Martin recalls, “When I came into the business we primarily worked with small diamond parcels (aka melee), and one of my first tasks was picking up tiny fallen stones with tweezers. I don’t know if you guys remember how thick the carpets were in the ’70s but needless to say my first impression was that the diamond business is not all glitz and glamour as most would expect!” Mark adds, “When I came in, we were already working with larger stones, but I still somehow ended up looking for melee in the carpet as well. Thankfully, we had upgraded the flooring by then.”

Julius Klein Green diamond pink diamond ring.

Generational Gems

Jade Trau, Fifth-generation, founder and designer

“My first memory of being around jewelry was when I was about five years old and a male friend, whose grandfather—like mine— was in the diamond business, gave me tiny diamond studs for my birthday. It was a tough act to follow getting diamonds so young from a boy.”

Jade Trau’s Sadie Two Stone Diamond Ring set in 18K gold and platinum.

Generational Gems

Omi Nagpal, Preeti Nagpal, Niveet Nagpal First, fifth, and sixth generation, Founders of Omi Gems and President of Omi Gems and Omi Privé

When asked if he always knew he would join the family business, Omi says, “Not at all. It never crossed my mind. I was an engineer by trade and worked in computers when we first moved to New York in 1975. I just wanted to come to America and live the American dream. I didn’t know a ruby was red or a sapphire was blue until I was 40 and started in the industry.”

Omi Privé Bi-Color Tourmaline, Spinel, Demantoid, and Diamond Ring.