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For all jewelry enthusiasts and industry professionals passionate about the history of jewelry, what follows is a selection of books about independent designers and renowned jewelers excellent for gifting to customers, stocking in your store or adding to your personal collection. I’ve also included a couple of classics that feel perfect for the season and remain timeless as they explore themes rooted in the past.

Click through for our holiday picks.

by beth bernstein

The World of David Morris: The London Jeweler (Rizzoli, October 2024)

Author Annabel Davidson has written an engaging book about jeweler David Morris, who established himself during London’s Swinging Sixties. Although he has been written about in other books, this is the first major book dedicated to his legacy as an “artist jeweler” during the decade in which he started, using flawless gemstones with rough-hewn crystals and textured metals so popular at the time. The book then takes us through his use of the rarest and most extraordinary gemstones and his pioneering creativity and craftsmanship. The company and creations are now overseen by his son Jeremy Morris. The work debuts some of the house’s latest and most innovative designs as well as a large selection of its most famous pieces with new photography and gouaches created specifically for the book. Davidson is the editor of Vanity Fair on Jewelry and has written for British Vogue, The Telegraph and The New York Times.

PHOTO: THE WORLD OF DAVID MORRIS BOOK COVER

The World of David Morris: The London Jeweler (Rizzoli, October 2024)

Reflection necklace with different cuts and colors of stones creating a mosaic effect.

PHOTO: THE WORLD OF DAVID MORRIS

Solange: Jewellery for Chromantics (Rizzoli, October 2024)

Solange Azagury-Partridge has created her own vocabulary of design. Innovative and often avant-garde, she is a groundbreaking designer, and her witty and edgy aesthetic has set her apart from her peers and gained her a dedicated following in the fashion and jewelry industries. With text by Azagury-Partridge and jewelry historian and author Ruth Peltason and a foreword by noted jewelry author and Victoria and Albert Museum curator Clare Phillips, Azagury-Partridge’s first book reveals her captivating world of fantasy-filled creations.
Her jewelry has been collected by celebrities such as Julianne Moore, Sarah Jessica Parker and Beyoncé. Her love of language and meaning became part of the creative process, informing the names of her collections: Stoned, Chromance, Regalia, Poptails, Scribbles, Sentimentals, Hotlips and Metamorphosis. Her first book offers a deep dive into her irreverent and authentic styles and collections, her shop and the world she inhabits as well as all the jewels she has brought to life.

PHOTO: SOLANGE: JEWELLERY FOR CHROMANTICS BOOK COVER

Solange: Jewellery for Chromantics (Rizzoli, October 2024)

The Stoned necklace is the signature piece from the collection of the same name featuring gold, amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, emeralds, fire opals, moonstones, onyx, peridots, rubies, sapphires, tourmalines and plique-à-jour enamel.

PHOTO: SOLANGE: JEWELLERY FOR CHROMANTICS

The Art of the Ring: Highlights From the Griffin Collection (Volume 2) (Ad Ilissvm, February 2024)

Written by the renowned author and historian Diana Scarisbrick, who has published dozens of books on jewelry of all ages, The Art of the Ring features popular examples of every category of ring throughout history, from antiquity to modern times. The Griffin collection is a distinguished set of rare high-quality rings that have been expertly curated over several decades. Signet, devotional, memorial, sentimental and decorative rings are included. The book showcases approximately 100 rings that are highlights of this extensive collection. What I love most about this book is that it reveals how much symbolic value a ring can have and how such a piece can speak to the hopes, aspirations, tastes and emotions of its owner. For those who want perhaps the best comprehensive book on rings by the same author, also look for Rings: Jewellery of Power, Love, and Loyalty. I have two copies that I keep for reference in separate rooms.

PHOTO: THE ART OF THE RING: HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE GRIFFIN COLLECTION BOOK COVER

The Art of the Ring: Highlights From the Griffin Collection (Volume 2) (Ad Ilissvm, February 2024)

The Spitzer Renaissance diamond and ruby ring, Venice, Italy, mid 16th century.

PHOTO: THE ART OF THE RING: HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE GRIFFIN COLLECTION

Understanding Jewellery: The 20th Century (ACC Art Books, November 2021)

Speaking of classic books, one that I recommend to friends who want a readable, educational and beautifully illustrated book about antique and vintage jewelry is Understanding Jewellery, by David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti. Unlike many other encyclopedic and informative books spanning different centuries, this one is an enjoyable scholarly romp through the past and a feast for the eyes for the novice and the consummate jewelry fan and collector. In a follow-up to the original, in publication since 1989, the authors have zoomed in on one century. In this tome, Bennett and Mascetti concentrate on the 20th century and the houses and designers who defined jewelry throughout this period.

Understanding Jewellery: The 20th Century digs deeper into the history, the popular styles, movements, techniques and brands of each decade and includes 500 new photographs of the jaw-dropping jewels. Bennett was the worldwide chairman of Sotheby’s International’s jewelry division and the chairman of Sotheby’s Switzerland, and Mascetti was Sotheby’s chairman of jewelry in Europe. They worked on some of the most historic auctions during their tenure at Sotheby’s and together have over 40 years of experience.

PHOTO: UNDERSTANDING JEWELLERY: THE 20TH CENTURY BOOK COVER

Understanding Jewellery: The 20th Century (ACC Art Books, November 2021)

A superb ruby, onyx and diamond bracelet, Lacloche, Paris, circa 1925.

PHOTO: UNDERSTANDING JEWELLERY: THE 20TH CENTURY

Ray Griffiths: The Works

I am thrilled to see this new coffee table book by jewelry designer Ray Griffiths. I met Griffiths 20 years ago and have been a fan ever since. He was also one of the designers in my first edition of Jewelry’s Shining Stars (Fine Points 2013) about talented and emerging independent designers. Ray Griffiths: The Works combines his story and his inimitable designs with beautiful photographs featuring throughout the book. His signature Crownwork technique and intricately detailed aesthetic have propelled him into an ever-evolving roster of global retail stores. Included in the book are personal and professional anecdotes and stories of his journey from his native Australia to New York as well as a visual journey through his design evolution, from early works to recent creations. The book also delves into his encyclopedic knowledge of gemstones and provides a peek into his bespoke commissioned pieces.

PHOTO: RAY GRIFFITHS: THE WORKS BOOK COVER

Ray Griffiths: The Works

A collection of Ray Griffiths’s signature Crownwork designs.

PHOTO: RAY GRIFFITHS: THE WORKS

Divine Jewels: The Pursuit of Beauty (Flammarion, October 2024)

This weighty coffee table book features the remarkable jewelry of one of the world’s most prominent jewelry collectors, Kazumi Arikawa, who wrote the book with contributions from Diana Scarisbrick and photographs by Nils Herrmann. Arikawa is a Japanese collector and the founder and president of Albion Art. The collection he has amassed over his career is one of the most striking I have seen — the rarity of the pieces, the different eras they represent and the extraordinary artistic and historical value of each piece result in a feast for the eyes. Within the collection, he has acquired an important range of royal jewels and the largest personal collection of historical tiaras. According to the press release on the book, “In Japanese culture, this veneration of beauty is closely linked to the purity of the soul.” The book includes 250 treasured pieces that have passed through the hands of Arikawa, including a selection of masterpieces now held in the Qatar Museums collections.

PHOTO: DIVINE JEWELS: THE PURSUIT OF BEAUTY BOOK COVER

Divine Jewels: The Pursuit of Beauty (Flammarion, October 2024)

Tiara of Princess Marie Louise of Bulgaria.

PHOTO: NILS HERRMANN, FROM DIVINE JEWELS: THE PURSUIT OF BEAUTY

Modern British Jewellery Designers (ACC Artbooks 2021)

Another classic that belongs in every jewelry afficionado’s library is Modern British Jewellery Designers by Mary Ann Wingfield  (ACC Artbooks 2021). Particularly now when the 1960s-80s are such a huge part of what’s happening in jewelry and fashion, it’s interesting to look back on the designers that pioneered the looks of that time. British jewelry designers were recognized due to a 1961 exhibition at the Goldsmith’s Hall that featured 25 British designers, each with unique aesthetics but also part of the “artist jewelry” movement that the exhibit showcased. The movement is displayed quite intriguingly in this coffee table book. The work features the most influential British designers, jewelers, goldsmiths and silversmiths of 1960-80, accompanied by new photography of their creations. During this time, natural, uncut stones exploded into vogue, and women started to buy their own jewelry. The jewels of these groundbreaking designers collectively set into motion a transformative period and an era of innovation in British jewelry design.

PHOTO: MODERN BRITISH JEWELLERY DESIGNERS BOOK COVER

Modern British Jewellery Designers (ACC Artbooks 2021)

Platinum, diamond and fantasy-cut aquamarine pendant by Andrew Grima, 1973. The aquamarine was cut by innovative lapidary Bernd Munsteiner.

PHOTO: FRANCESCA GRIMA, FROM MODERN BRITISH JEWELLERY DESIGNERS

Paraiba: A Legacy of Color

In the beautiful and educational book Paraiba: A Legacy of Color (theparibabook.com), co-authors Kevin Ferreira, a gemologist who specializes in the enchanting gemstone, and Katerina Perez, an internationally known jewelry influencer, take a deep dive into the the discovery, history, mining and color variations of Paraiba tourmalines. Perez also presents the world-renowned houses and independent designers working with the magic gem. For anyone who loves jewelry and the world of rare precious gemstones, this is a book chock full of stories and stunning illustrations.

PHOTO: PARAIBA: A LEGACY OF COLOR BOOK COVER

Paraiba: A Legacy of Color

A Chanel design featuring a Paraiba tourmaline.

PHOTO FROM PARAIBA: A LEGACY OF COLOR

Sybil and David Yurman: Artists and Jewelers (Phaidon, November 2024)

The iconic duo Sybil and David Yurman joined forces with editor Thierry-Maxime Loriot, who is an independent curator, creative director and author, to create one of the most alluring and comprehensive monographs I have seen in a long time. But we would expect nothing less from the husband and wife team who for over 50 years have established David Yurman as one of America’s foremost luxury jewelry brands and one of the world’s largest privately held luxury jewelers.

Throughout this glorious tome, the Yurmans capture the pivotal moments of the brand, from its earliest days in the underground art worlds of New York and California through its emergence on the global stage. The book includes more than 400 images from the Yurmans’ archives, most of which are published here for the first time. Also featured are jewelry portraits, original design sketches, family photographs and behind-the-scenes images of global campaigns featuring brand ambassadors like Kate Moss, Amber Valletta and Naomi Campbell. It concludes with a section on the brand’s future as imagined by the Yurmans’ son, Evan Yurman, now president and chief creative officer of the company. The book’s cover design showcases one of Sybil Yurman’s paintings, while the title type is designed to resemble David Yurman’s welding in embossed gold foil. A luxury edition of the book will also be available with a clamshell box, of which 250 will be signed by both Sybil and David Yurman. The book can be purchased at Phaidon.com.

PHOTO: SYBIL AND DAVID YURMAN : ARTISTS AND JEWELERS BOOK COVER

Sybil and David Yurman: Artists and Jewelers (Phaidon, November 2024)

Renaissance silver and gold bracelet with amethyst and rhodolite garnets, 1979.

PHOTO: NICHOLAS ALAN COPE

The William Goldberg Way (November 2024)

The William Goldberg Way is a limited-edition book released to commemorate the William Goldberg Diamond Corp.’s 75th year in business and the 25th anniversary of its introduction of the Ashoka cut. It was co-written by jewelry connoisseur and journalist Jill Newman and Jackie Caradonio. The book traces Goldberg’s career as a master diamantaire whose slogan was “The magic is in the make.” His contribution to the business was so profound that in 2005, East 48th Street between Fifth and Madison avenues in Manhattan was named “William Goldberg Way” in his honor, and that’s how the book got its name. He passed away in 2003, but his legacy lives on with his family, including his wife, Lili; son Saul; daughter Eve; son-in-law Barry Berg (who is married to William’s daughter Deborah); and grandson Benjamin Goldberg.

The highly readable book takes us on the journey with Goldberg as he travels in pursuit of the world’s rarest diamonds. It highlights his masterful and ingenious cutting techniques, including his proprietary Ashoka diamond, which is named for second-century B.C. Buddhist Emperor Ashoka. The diamond was said to possess the power to “remove sorrow and bring joy.” The book also reveals the man behind the diamonds, featuring stories from throughout his career. The book is sold at williamgoldberg.com.

PHOTO: THE WILLAM GOLDBERG WAY BOOK COVER

The William Goldberg Way (November 2024)

PHOTO: THE WILLAM GOLDBERG WAY

Holiday Gift Guide: Stunning Jewelry Books That Your Customers Will Love

Holiday Gift Guide: Stunning Jewelry Books That Your Customers Will Love

For all jewelry enthusiasts and industry professionals passionate about the history of jewelry, what follows is a selection of books about independent designers and renowned jewelers excellent for gifting to customers, stocking in your store or adding to your personal collection. I’ve also included a couple of classics that feel perfect for the season and remain timeless as they explore themes rooted in the past.

Click through for our holiday picks.

by beth bernstein