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I Thought I’d Seen All the Jewelry I Needed for This Year … But I Was So Wrong

August shows in New York yielded many designs that retailers need to see.

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WITH LAS VEGAS JEWELRY Week two months in the past, I thought I had seen everything I needed to see for the season as far as new trends, hot items and designers to watch or discover. But August in New York kicked off with Spectrum Awards Editors’ Day and then, from Aug. 10-14, four shows ran almost concurrently: Melee the Show, NY Now, The JA Show and Metal & Smith. There were also press deskside appointments of saleable and noteworthy designers. A summer head cold, pad full of notes and iPhone full of photos later, I realized there was a lot more to report and bring to the attention of retailers who couldn’t make this trip into New York City.

Let’s break it down.

The colorful pieces shown above are by (left to right) Soulbound, Sofia Zakia and Rebecca Overmann.

These rings are by (left to right) Karen Karch, K8 Jewelry and Elizabeth Street.

Engaging Colors

This was the leading trend at these shows for a new wave of bridal rings rendered beautifully by both established independent and up-and-coming designers. The best in this category included Rebecca Overmann, Megan Thorne, Karen Karch and Sofia Zakia as well as rising stars Elizabeth Street, Soulbound (all at Melee the Show) and K8 Jewelry (at The JA Show).

Vibrant and unexpectedly refreshing stones for engagement rings such as green sapphires, moonstone, garnet, purple and red spinel, rubies, aquamarines, pink sapphires and a host of other gemstones we never thought would sell in this category created new excitement among retailers who shopped the show.

These old-meets-new designs are by (left to right) Talon, Sofia Zakia, Heavenly Vices and Erica Molinari.

The Past Meets the Present

This trend can be seen in independent designer collections with jewels that borrow from the past yet are imbued with both a current sensibility and built-in longevity. Contemporary designers are inspired by different periods and reimagine their influences with daring and the freedom to mix time frames and materials with abandon. A few of these creative designers also work with one-of-a-kind pieces that they transform into symbolic keepsakes for today’s woman. Designers mixing old and new or reflecting on pieces of the past and turning them into modern jewels include Samantha Jackson of Heavenly Vices (Metal & Smith), Erica Molinari (Melee the Show), Sofia Zakia (Melee the Show),  Talon (press preview) and Darsana (press preview).

Shown here are chains by (left to right) Roule & Co., Polly Wales and Mallary Marks.

Working On the Chain Gang

This is a theme that continues to evolve as designers create their own chains from cast and handmade links in different shapes, lengths and widths. There’s often an extra link that acts as an “add on” to lengthen or add one medallion or multiple charms and medallions to the chain. Whether they be necklace or bracelet chains, the links can also be worn alone. They are often textured with touches of different colors of diamonds as accents or combined with vivid colored gemstones to pump up the style quotient and add an extra dimension of elegance. Designers who have joined the chain gang include Polly Wales (NY Now), Tura Sen (Melee the Show), Michelle Fantaci (Melee the Show) and Mallary Marks (Melee the Show).

Shown here are pieces by (left to right) Theresa Kaz, Roule & Co., Michelle Fantaci and Darsana.

Show Me Your Heart

Designers have brought back this universal symbol of love in all materials. It is one of the most popular motifs I saw from Las Vegas and the August shows in New York City. Although the heart still evokes sentimental and spiritual meanings that range from romance to devotion to friendship to divine love, the modern interpretations are anything but frilly or fussy or sugary sweet. These new versions range from feminine yet bold to daring and edgy. Designs from Thereza Kaz (The JA Show), Roule & Co. (Melee the Show), Michelle Fantaci (Melee the Show) and Darsana (press preview) are sure to win the heart of today’s consumer.

Shown here are earrings by (left to right) Hannah G, Soulbound, Sarah Swell, Moritz Glik and Julie Lamb.

The Ear Party

This trend continues with all shapes and styles of earrings. Multiple piercings are still going strong in smaller studs and drops. Geometric linear styles are going strong, and those with spherical drops offer a feel of the planets and celestial themes so prevalent this season. For different styles check out Moritz Glik (Melee the Show), Hannah G (press preview), Soulbound (Melee the Show) and Julie Lamb (Metal & Smith).

These pieces are by (left to right) Alex Monroe, Lene Vibe, Lene Vibe and Alex Monroe.

In the Garden

This is where you will want to stay even when the chill of fall comes along. This is a look that seems to continue well into fall/winter and holiday as so many women love floral motifs. And when they are mixed with insects in gold or precious stones and metal, well, we even appreciate them then, especially when created by Lene Vibe (Melee the Show), whose pieces continue to grow more magical and who creates a whole little fantastical world around pearls.

Alex Monroe Jewellery (Melee the Show) also does an amazing job with the tiniest of insects and a range of small and delicate blooms that appear on necklaces, earrings and rings.

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Shown above (left to right) are displays by Julie Lamb, Heavenly Vices and Alex Monroe.

These displays are by (left to right) Soulbound, Megan Thorne and Lene Vibe.

On Display

Take a page out of these designers’ cases. All of them used either vivid colors or the perfect props that allow you to understand their designs and make them pop. Check out how Soulbound creates the feeling of its collection within a 6-foot case with small objects (Melee the Show). Alex Monroe Jewellery creates a similar vibe with their displays props and pretty little accents (Melee the Show). Megan Thorne’s touches always echo back to her feeling for antique inspired creations such as in her vintage peacocks that act as ring trays. Lene Vibe (Melee the Show) also adds an extra touch with glass and brass cases that act as displays for her little garden party of jewels. Heavenly Vices (Metal & Smith) shows that you can display pieces beautifully when you only have a table to work as long as you have just the right hue in light violet displays that pop gold and silver, diamonds and enamel touches. And Julie Lamb (Metal & Smith) proves that you are in New York with her themed posters and touches that speak to the city she captures in her collection.

These plume-inspired pieces are by Annie Fensterstock.

Stand Out and Show Your Plumes

If these styles don’t bring out the peacock in you, I don’t know what will. Peacock feathers take shape in all different renditions, but two favorites were those that appeared in earrings by Annie Fensterstock at Melee the Show and at The Spectrum Awards Editor’s Day.

Shown here are pieces by (left to right) Michelle Fantaci, Erica Molinari and Brooke Gregson.

A Jewel of a Different Color (or Many Colors)

This trend can be seen in those with enameling in everything from antique-inspired looks to those with a pop ’60s feeling. Whether the enamel technique is used to highlight bold gemstones or to create the backdrop for motifs and messages, it is now being seen in different variations, which we saw at the shows in Las Vegas and New York and at press previews.

Beth Bernstein is a published author of three books and jewelry and fashion expert with 18+ years experience. A broad knowledge of the history of jewelry and fashion coupled with a background in "the story", writing, trends, design concepts has earned Beth a proven track record.

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Dave Richardson

Here’s Why Having a Mirror on Your Counter Is So Critical

It’s not just vanity.

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WHY IT IS TRUE: This gives her an opportunity to immediately see how the beautiful piece of jewelry looks on her.

PLAN OF ACTION: Take this opportunity to observe her reaction, ask open-ended questions to reveal her feelings, and move for the close accordingly.

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Why You Need to Talk to Your CPA ASAP

A conversation and some planning today can minimize your tax burden tomorrow.

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A CONVERSATION WITH YOUR CPA now can help minimize your tax burden later.

With the end of the financial year fast approaching, now is a good time to start thinking about your end-of-year financial results. No one wants to pay tax, and certainly no one wants to pay any more than they must. Tax evasion is a criminal act that will see you finish up in court. Tax minimization, however, is a perfectly legitimate way of keeping your tax to the most you’re required to pay.

Too often businesses wait until the financial year has ended, determine their financial result, then wonder how they can reduce their tax bill. This can be a little like closing the gate after the horse has bolted. Many tax minimization strategies can be implemented before the end of the financial year, and now is a good time to talk to your CPA about some possible approaches.

Much of this strategy can revolve around the expenses you might be planning to claim. Larger investments in assets can often have their cost apportioned over several years, and there can be an advantage, if you are planning to make this investment, in undertaking it before the end of the financial year.

Another aspect to discuss with your CPA is how income is allocated. It’s important to take advantage of different tax rates for owners and partners in a business. Again, this decision sometimes needs to be made before the financial year has ended to avoid making retrospective decisions that may be frowned upon by the IRS.

Before you talk to your CPA, try to have a handle on how your financial year is going, as this will make a difference to what they may recommend. Your accountant will want to know how the year is tracking and what performance you are budgeting on for the last month of the year. Obviously, some constructive estimating, especially around the busy December period, will be needed. Your CPA will then be able to best advise you of what actions will help your financial year-end before the 31st of December.

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Shane Decker

The Most Important Part of Your Sales Presentation Happens After the Sale

Go the extra mile for your client if you want to see them again.

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HOW DO YOU FEEL about a movie that ends poorly? No matter how good it was before then, a weak finish leaves you feeling dissatisfied.

Jewelry presentations are the same way. Clients tend to remember the first 30 seconds and the last 30 seconds more than the middle of your presentation. And yet, all too often after the purchase is made (or repair taken in), the salesperson turns and walks to the back, allowing the client to leave the store on their own.

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The way out is as important as the way in. We have to treat the client as a guest who is coming into our home for one of the most important events of their lives. Not only that, but the client should feel even more important walking out than they did when they came into the store.

When everything is done, always walk the client to the door. Open the door for them, give them two of your business cards, and ask them to give one to a friend.

Even when you have other clients waiting for you, always walk each one out. Others will see this service and expect the same. Many times as you’re walking the client out, they will stop and look into a case they didn’t look into on the way in. This allows you to start another presentation, put something on a wish list, plant a seed for a later purchase or even put something on layaway.

Selling on the way out is easy. The client is now in a spending mood, and obviously they love you or they wouldn’t have given you their money already. It also allows you to give suggestions about service and other events you have coming up.

Sometimes, the client may have other important things they want to talk about on the way to the door. They’ll start by saying, “By the way…” This allows you to build rapport, get information that allows you to do more effective clienteling, and become even more of a friend.

So make the client feel that your store is the most awesome place to shop. Not just because of the merchandise, but because there is not any other place to shop in their area that compares to the professionalism, politeness and experience that your team delivers.

People get ho-hum service everywhere — but don’t let it happen in your store. It’s up to us to break the cycle. Make the exit even more awesome than the entrance. And remember: Always thank them for coming in!

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