Borrowing from the past to create jewelry with a contemporary presence is a trend that continues to evolve on the fall/winter runways, the red carpet and jewelry design studios. There are various themes and time periods being mined for inspiration. Victorian motifs and messages are still top of mind for designers who are looking for symbolism that has to do with love, luck, guidance and direction. Protection and talismanic imagery takes jewelers back to ancient times, while certain silhouettes and textures also figure into historical references that are being reinvigorated into contemporary and current pieces. And then there are pieces that simply use old cut diamonds in modern settings. All of these iterations combine soulful character and old world charm with today’s innovative details and techniques.

By Beth Bernstein

Prices listed may change depending upon the price of gold and the effects of tariffs.

Chloe Fall/Winter 2025/26 Runway Show.

Coomi 20K gold Trinetra charm necklace with love, luck and protective symbols with diamonds, pink tourmaline, blue sapphire, pink sapphire, malachite, lapis and sapphire crystal.

Priced upon request

coomi.com

Monica Rich Kosann 18K yellow gold Victorian-inspired protective shield pendant with turquoise for luck, pave diamonds for endurance and the word ‘fearless’ engraved on the back.

Range: $6,585-$7,875

monicarichkosann.com

Anna Maccieri Rossi 18K yellow gold three-dimensional Night & Day Magic Wand pendant in aventurine glass, mother-of-pearl and diamonds, expressing the passing of time.

$6,050

annamaccieriross.com

Circa 1700 Love & Luck Horseshoe Cuff in 18K and platinum is a modern take inspired by Victorian horseshoe cuffs with a subtle vintage twist, an homage to Aldo Cipullo by replacing the seven lucky horseshoe nails with moveable screw heads. Cuffs can be customized with text on the exterior in either enamel or diamonds.

Priced upon request

forfuturereference.com

Lord Jewelry enamel and gemstone ring inspired by the naturalistic motifs and enameling of the Art Nouveau period mixed with the darkened diamond edges of the earlier 19th century. It features a center sapphire accented with diamonds and floral enamel details.

$9,900

lordjewelry.us

Silvia Furmanovich marquetry and18K yellow gold Quintessence Tibetan Sky Octagonal Earrings with diamond and cornaline, giving a nod to historical references to the magic of the evening sky.

Priced upon request

silviafurmanovich.com

Jacquie Aiche 14K Large Behanti diamond necklace.

$77,220

jacqueaiche.com

Selim Mouzannar double drop Istanbul 18K gold and sapphire, tanzanite and diamond star earrings harking back to the Ottoman Empire and Victorian times and evoking wishing on a star or finding and following your lucky star.

$42,500

selimmouzannar.com

Francesca Villa 18K gold Bloom Ring with vintage resin cameo revitalized with diamonds and rhodolite garnet shank.

$3,190

francescavilla.it

Erica Molinari 18K gold handpainted vitreous glass enamel pendant with angels, a timeless reminder that we are being watched over.

$10,165

ericamolinari.com

Syna spins a current twist on the protective Victorian sword in 18K gold and diamonds.

$4,250

synajewels.com

Mined +Found 14K gold Compass Ring in opal and rainbow gem surround with four bezel diamonds that represent the four cardinal directions. The ring is a play on compasses and flip rings reversing from the opal side to smooth, satin finish gold, engraved with an antique compass rose inspired motif and diamond center.

$4,650

minedandfound.com

Zahn-Z 14K gold Sadaf Mosaic Signet Ring inspired by the legacy of Damascus mosaic with cut natural mother-of-pearl, black enamel and white diamonds.

$5,295

zahnzjewelry.com