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The recent 2022 summer edition of Melee the Show featured 75 exhibitors in the event’s new space at the Lighthouse at Chelsea Piers in New York. Designers I’ve known for many years and those I just met recently gathered in the natural lit space with an opening onto the pier. All the trends from Vegas continued and were a welcome sight for retailers who couldn’t attend Couture. I was taken by the fact that some designers bravely and adeptly experimented in areas that were new to them, while others stayed true to their aesthetics and expanded upon what they do best. Here we show some of the best of Melee with each designer representing one of the trends while also expressing their unique approach.

Susan Highsmith’s yellow gold and diamond jewelry.

susanhighsmith.com

BY BETH BERNSTEIN

Over the Rainbow

Vibrant mixed colors continue to pop in designers’ collections, looking freshest in cabochon cuts. This trend offers a feeling of the optimism after a dreary rain, yet also represents the sunrise and sunset in some pieces.

Anthony Lent 18K Multicolor Moon bracelet in sapphire, tourmaline, aquamarine, citrine, amethyst and garnet.

$23,230

anthonylent.com

In the Garden

There are beautiful blooms and floral designs when we talk about garden trends, but designers are also bringing in a range of dragonflies, butterflies, bees, lizards and other tiny creatures translated into gold and precious gemstones.

Talon Flirting Dragonfly is a light-hearted symbol of summer but also of transformation and self-realization. The 14K version features 17 Fair Trade Imperial Diopside stones

$1,290

talonyc.com

Floral Arrangements

This trend never seems to get stale when designers create fresh picks of blossoming botanicals.

Lene Vibe creates a new bunch of pendants with South Sea pearls, diamonds and her handmade 18K gold delicate flora motifs.

Price upon request

Think Pink

Designers are in a rosy mood as they continue to create pieces that are set with gems that range from pastel morganite to bubblegum pink sapphire to sunset tourmalines. We are seeing pink in all categories as we review jewelry for holiday 2022.

Adel Chefridi yellow gold pink tourmaline ring,

Price upon request

chefridi.com

Gittering In Gold

Yellow gold in organic shapes twinkling with diamonds creates tactile interest. Bracelets are strong in this category and are versatile in their everyday wearability.

Dana Bronfman 18K yellow gold Hammered Oval Wave bangle with diamonds

$7,700

danabronfman.com

Enamored by Enamel

Hand painting with enamel emerges from the past with a modern sensibility as designers learn the craft of vitreous glass enameling, creating motifs that range from naturalistic to ornate. Erica Molinari has succeeded in learning the craft and works in different types, colors and styles. She previewed her newest collection at Melee and explained, “For me it’s about the old-world techniques, character of the past and the love of acquiring new skills that allow me to reimagine the pieces for modern day collectors.”


Erica Molinari hand painted range of pendants in 18K gold with her signature Latin or Italian message on the underside. All styles are created with vitreous glass and deeply engraved gold.

Price upon request

ericamolinari.com

Lock It Up

Lockets have been trending for some time in a range of styles that give a nod to the past with a contemporary appeal. The direction has evolved to include locket rings that feature similar hinges to those worn around the neck but make a statement on the finger. Many can also be personalized.

EF Collection 14K yellow gold and diamond oval shaped locket ring, which can be engraved with initials, dates or a word.

$1,850 

efcollection.com

From Here to Antiquity

Ancient forms and textures take on a contemporary feel in the hands of modern independent designers as they mine past civilizations for shapes and textures for every category of jewelry.

Mallary Marks Emerald Mesopotamian Earrings in 18K yellow gold with cabochon emeralds.

$3,744

True Colors

In this time of personalization, there is nothing more intimate than sharing your true self with your fiancée. Designers are creating rings that reveal the beauty of natural colored diamonds and fancy colored sapphires in all shades and tones. These rings speak to romance and the relationship of the couple getting engaged.

Megan Thorne Wood Nymph Daphne ring in a 1.5-carat milky pink pear rose cut diamond with round rose cut pink sapphire and antique diamond accent.

$7,997

meganthorne.com

Fancy That

Fancy cut engagement rings continue to take the spotlight as designers evolve their collections. Pears continue to be one of the most popular shapes, along with emerald and east-to-west marquise cuts. Antique diamonds add personality and instant sustainability when combined with eco-conscious metals.

Rebecca Overmann 18K gold Planchette engagement ring with 5.01-carat gold mine cut pear shaped diamond.

Price upon request

rebeccaovermann.com

Out of This World

Contemporary customers will always be mesmerized by the magic of celestial motifs and outer space. Designers are creating new ways of presenting this theme whether it be in enameling or gemstone inlays featuring the moon, stars and different constellations in the evening sky.

Acanthus Jewelry Galaxy Nebula pendant in blue.

$1,900

acanthusjewelry.com

Lore and Legends

From the magical world of childhood fairytales to the lore of legends from medieval times, everything from crowns to scepters to dragons feature into the motifs and shapes of fine jewelry.

Sventlana Lazar 18K gold Scepter collection pendant featuring a dumortierite cabochon, rainbow moonstone and royal blue sapphires.

$6,930

svetlanalazar.com

Rock of Ages

From tree-like motifs to volcanic explosions of color and star-like effects, gems ranging from dendritic agate to trapiche emeralds to Mexican fire opals are works of art in themselves. And these are just some of the stones that form in the ground as creatively as if they were painted or sculpted by hand. Some designers offer the simplest setting, allowing the gems to take in the entire spotlight, while others add their signature to it without detracting from the gem.

Amali Jewelry Egg Shaped Mexican Fire Opal pendant with hand crafted 18K gold bezel.

$2,100

amalijewelry.com

Jeweled Armor

Wearing protective talismans goes far back to early civilizations but has become one of the key trends of the past five to 10 years. Tied partly to the multi-charm necklace trend and partly to the need to feel less vulnerable during the pandemic, these talismans have expanded and become an even stronger direction in fine jewelry. The motifs and shapes include shields, daggers, swords, Hamsa hands and evil eyes, to name a few.

Dru. Jewelry 14K gold Large Ruby and Diamond Drippin’ Dagger.

$1,475.00

drujewelry.com

Melee the Show Jewelry Trends: Current Styles Draw from the Past, Look to the Future

Melee the Show Jewelry Trends: Current Styles Draw from the Past, Look to the Future

The recent 2022 summer edition of Melee the Show featured 75 exhibitors in the event’s new space at the Lighthouse at Chelsea Piers in New York. Designers I’ve known for many years and those I just met recently gathered in the natural lit space with an opening onto the pier. All the trends from Vegas continued and were a welcome sight for retailers who couldn’t attend Couture. I was taken by the fact that some designers bravely and adeptly experimented in areas that were new to them, while others stayed true to their aesthetics and expanded upon what they do best. Here we show some of the best of Melee with each designer representing one of the trends while also expressing their unique approach.

Susan Highsmith’s yellow gold and diamond jewelry.

susanhighsmith.com

BY BETH BERNSTEIN