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Sustainable building practices and reliable supply chains help the planet and set ethical retailers apart.



Andrea Riso of Talisman Collection in El Dorado Hills, CA.

Andrea Riso, owner of Talisman Collection in El Dorado Hills, CA, has made every effort to sell jewelry made fromrecycled metals and ethically sourced and fair-trade gemstones. Her building is certified for Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED). “It’s simply the right thing to do, Riso says. “I wanted to maintain a level of responsibility that goes beyond just being a good jeweler; I wanted to be a good member of the community.”

Only recently did she begin to include that information in Instagram posts. “I didn’t realize that people search for that,” she says.

While she can point to certification for the store itself, proof of ethical sourcing is complicated. “People want certificates that say stones are ethically sourced. We’re an AGS store, an AGTA store, and we work within the parameters that are available to us, but it’s often a matter of hoping that dealers are telling the truth.”

Those details are important.

According to the Jewelers Vigilance Committee’s Quality Assurance Guide, you, the retailer, cannot merely rely on a representation made by a supplier when describing products. If it turns out the supplier’s representations are inaccurate and you simply repeat what they tell you, you will be considered equally liable, especially if you have never done anything to check.

So, it’s vital to educate yourself about what you’re selling. Whether or not you promote your store as “green,” you need to be ready to answer questions. “Like most things in life, hiding your head in the sand is not to your benefit,” says Tiffany Stevens, president and CEO of Jewelers Vigilance Committee.


So, to begin with ask suppliers to fill out forms explaining where their goods come from and how they are procured and made. Emily Armenta, who has built her jewelry design business on the tenets of social responsibility, suggests asking suppliers if they belong to the Responsible Jewelry Council. It’s worth the effort: “If you can crystallize your brand message and your social responsibility together, you have a competitive edge,” Armenta says.

Don’t make any assumptions. If you assume that lab-created diamonds are “green” simply because they aren’t mined, you could be wrong, depending on how much electricity is used to create them, experts say.

Sales trainer Roxana Lucas urges retailers to implement their own quality-control measures. “Don’t base your reputation and liability on your supplier’s word,” she says. “You’re a third party by the time it gets to you. Ask really hard questions of your suppliers and make sure they can answer them.”

Whether or not you are able to make “green claims” about your building, your business or your inventory, there is another aspect to “going green” in which everyone can participate.

“A better story to tell than green claims is what the industry has done and is doing around responsible sourcing,” Stevens says. “Our industry has been under scrutiny for a long time and has developed responsible sourcing protocol going back to The Kimberley Process. The industry is doing all kinds of things to make sure we’re not sourcing things from conflict, from criminal terrorist financing. There are specific stories they can tell that parallel the emotional experience of buying jewelry.”

Such stories are being told by the Diamond Empowerment Fund, which invites retailers to share their own experiences for use both on its Facebook page, which has 175,000 followers, and its website It’s easy, too. Just fill out a form and a writer will create your good-news story.

“I find that everyone has their own idea of green,” says Allan Malbranck, owner of Diamond Gallery in Winnipeg, Manitoba, who was recognized by the Retail Council of Canada for the store’s sustainable design. “Each time you budget for a purchase of any kind, ask your supplier for a more green or sustainable option and have them include supporting documentation.”

Once you’re confident about what you’re selling, you can integrate it into sales presentations and marketing.

“Ethics-based purchasers need to feel good about the luxury they want,” Lucas says. “They want to buy products that align with their ethical standards, from businesses that share their values and their standards — protecting workers, saving energy and environment worldwide.”

Be aware that consumers may have heard more about problems than about solutions. Help consumers understand that spending money with you can create a positive impact. Make sustainability, social responsibility, community support and responsible sourcing part of your brand promise, your marketing message and every sales presentation.

“I highly recommend taking the opportunity we have as business owners to encourage change in the effort to make our world a better, more positive and healthier place to live and work,” Malbranck says. “I believe there will be a time when our grandchildren will ask us what we did when we had the opportunity to make their world better. The rewards, small or large, will be worth the investment.”

Retail Stores Going The Distance for Sustainability

Going To The Source

D&H Jewelers | San Francisco

Traveling the world, working for a Russian diamond company, Shawn Higgins had become deeply disillusioned with the jewelry industry.

“I started to see what terrible things this industry was doing to people,” he says. “Strip mining the Earth for metal. Forced mining labor. Individuals buying precious gemstones from small miners for pennies on the dollar. As I got older, I said, I’m done.”

But then Higgins met and worked with Lindsay Daunell, who had a background not only in fashion and jewelry, but also environmental studies; together the new business partners developed a concept for a sustainable retail business, which renewed Higgins’ interest in the industry.

The physical part of creating the San Francisco store was fairly simple. They installed LED lighting and bamboo walls and went to a junkyard to buy old doors. They made displays from discarded material, too. They dug through layers of carpet and linoleum to uncover circa 1880s wood floors, which they decided to keep, because keeping what was already there was, of course, the most sustainable thing to do. They created the Rose Cut Wine Bar within their store, where all of the wines served are local, kegged, and use biodynamic (chemical free) resourcing. The beautiful sycamore bar top was salvaged and put to good use after the tree serendipitously fell on a house their contractor was working on.

Shawn Higgins, left, and Lindsay Daunell, right, visit the Jwaneng diamond mine in Botswana with their guide.

Sourcing products for jewelry was far more complicated.

“I don’t trust anyone,” Higgins says.

He and Daunell personally verify every source of jewelry, gold or gemstones. “We traveled to Botswana, to see where the freshly mined diamonds were coming from,” he says. “We met diamond manufacturers, went to the mine, toured the mine, met the ministry of finance in Botswana. We went to Sri Lanka to visit my friend’s sapphire mine. He said 30 percent of the money was going to the people there. We wanted to make sure. And it was true.”

Ninety percent of their gold is reclaimed from consumer electronics. Says Higgins: “That source is in Canada. I went up there and met with the board.”

Giving back to gem-producing countries is also a goal they see coming to fruition. The duo has partnered with the Berkeley-based non-profit organization, The Ring Project, founded to fund civil initiatives in the Congo. So far, they’ve raised tens of thousands of dollars for scholarships for women. D&H purchases donated jewelry items in order to help fund this organization and has begun producing a line of jewelry using those recycled materials. “I appraise it, buy it for parts and pieces, we remake it as new jewelry and it’s creating a life cycle for women in the Congo,” Higgins says. “The Ring Project provides us with a source for the raw materials we use in our jewelry, in alignment with our core value of sustainability, through the repurposing of metals and diamonds,” Higgins says. “Giving back to the Earth, to people that we’ve taken so much from — it’s just the right thing to do.”



Green Building Design

The Diamond Gallery | Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada

For Allan and Anita Malbranck, their adventures in “green” began when their young daughters, including Lisa, now a co-owner, encouraged them to start recycling in the 1980s.

Around the same time, Allan became keenly interested in the idea of sustainable business design as one important component of a business prepared for the future, one that was economically sustainable as well. In 2008, when Lisa joined them in the business, they acquired a property to build a new 10,000 square foot professional/retail building.

The building was designed to exceed industry standards for environmental efficiency in heating and cooling, lighting and plumbing. They knew they preferred showing diamonds in natural, southern light and learned that southern exposure benefits an energy-efficient building. So the building was designed to face south and is equipped with ceramic metal halide, energy-efficient fluorescents and LED showcase lighting. Using a lot of natural light in their business also creates a “wow” customer experience because half of their walls are formed by nearly floor to ceiling height windows.

But they didn’t stop there.

The Malbrancks were determined the whole building would be built to last, and so they encouraged the architect and electrical mechanical teams to incorporate cutting-edge technology to achieve those goals, even participating in weekly construction meetings. “A green building includes long-term design to minimize costly repairs and future landfill garbage,” Malbranck says.

It was built with a piled foundation designed to minimize future structural damage, a heated crawlspace for a warm first floor in winter and easy access to electrical and mechanical systems, low maintenance finishes and a white vinyl roof.

At the suggestion of their mechanical contractor, they decided to use geothermal energy for heating and cooling. Geothermal energy originates from the heat retained within the Earth’s core. Efficient from minus 40 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit, it operates with the help of two underground wells and heat pumps. Manitoba’s electricity is powered by hydroelectric generating stations, so choosing geothermal energy instead of natural gas made the building completely sustainable.

“We incorporate the benefit of our sustainable building into all the other benefits we offer, such as conflict-free, in-house branded diamonds, mostly in-house design work, high quality recycled precious metals without toxic rhodium plating, sustainably sourced and recyclable paper,” Malbranck says. They also offer their tenants reduced parking rates if they own an electric car and are beginning to make plans for solar panels on the roof.

“We believe that if all other decision-making comparisons are equal, a potential customer will choose Diamond Gallery for the exceptional experience, followed by our commitment to the environment,” Malbranck says.

Andrea Riso makes the most of available natural light to conserve energy in her store.

Certifiably Sustainable

The Talisman Collection | El Dorado Hills, CA

Andrea Riso owns Talisman Collection, an LEED-certified store. Riso’s rented space boasts LED lighting, recycled outdoor air and a very low footprint, ecologically. She uses only recycled metals and forms relationships with suppliers to determine their sourcing.

LEED, or Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design, is a globally recognized symbol of sustainability achievement and the most widely used green building rating system in the world.

“To me, it wasn’t an option not to do the build-out this way,” Riso says. “It took a little more research, but the same amount of money and the same amount of time. The benefits are being a good corporate citizen, having good karma, protecting the earth and leaving a smaller footprint.”

“I use way less lighting than a lot of other jewelry stores,” Riso says. “Not only do I not have bright jeweler’s lights but I have the lowest LED lights possible. And I have a lot of windows.”

In California, a measure of green is mandated for building. With the drought and fire cycle in the state, water is precious. She is often asked if the water she uses at her jeweler’s bench is recycled, which it is. When she’s had to use water outside, drivers have stopped their cars to question her. “People are very conscientious about the environment in California, more so than elsewhere in the United States,” Riso says.

Before opening Talisman, Riso was a communications consultant for NASA’s Sustainability Base in Moffett Field, CA, which opened in 2011 and became the “greenest” building in the federal government when it received Platinum LEED certification. She learned much from the experience that has been relevant in her current career.

“Everything I do in this business model is anti-greed, anti-over-consumption and anti-triple keystone margins.”

Chris Wattsson was surprised to learn that vintage light fixtures and cases could be retrofitted with energy efficient lighting.

Retrofitted Lighting

Wattsson & Wattsson | Marquette, MI

When Chris Wattsson was in high school, he built a hydrogen-fuel cell for his car, which took its MPG from 16 to 32. “That hooked me,” he says, on energy conservation.

So in 2014, Wattsson spent $13,000 on lighting in his store, working with the Energy Optimization Program through the Marquette Board of Light & Power. He retrofitted his 100-year-old cases and chandeliers for LED lighting, something he wasn’t even sure was possible. He replaced 100 60-watt incandescent decorative, candelabra-style bulbs in chandeliers with comparable LED bulbs that only use 7 watts.

“I have an original tin ceiling, and the lighting has helped to highlight its beauty while continuing to provide natural looking, bright light. Retrofitting the cases helped us to get the best color light to make the pieces really sparkle.”

LEDs can last 25 times longer than incandescent bulbs and use 80 percent less energy. He’s saving 26,000 kilowatts a year, which is equivalent to taking four cars off the road per year, or planting 80 trees per year. “Over the last few years, energy costs have skyrocketed in our area,” he says. “I cringe thinking about how much I would be spending on electricity if I hadn’t done the project.”

When he embarked on the lighting project, the chandelier lights cost $20 per bulb and now a better quality LED bulb is just $9.

It was so successful that the Michigan Energy Optimization program profiled his store. He also received $1,560 in Energy Optimization Program rebates, and the project was the highlight of his Business After Hours presentation in 2014. “Many people comment on the beauty of our original tin ceiling, which naturally leads into a discussion about how I was able to update everything. Certain customers are really interested in green issues. Being green is a passion of mine, so it’s something that I talk energetically about.”

Next he’s looking into solar and wind-power. “My dream is to have a solar farm on my roof.”


5 Ways Retailers Are Making a Difference

  • 1. BY USING SOLAR POWER: Jonathan McCoy of McCoy Jewelers in Dubuque, IA, has a solar array on his roof that he describes as a long-term investment in the next generation. “Our setup is one in which we pull first from our solar array and then during peak times we get additional from the grid. When our production exceeds demand, it is routed back into the grid for others to use. In the future, as the products mature, we will add some sort of a battery so that we store the energy onsite for continuous uninterrupted power with the grid as our backup during the winter months and peak summer usage.”
  • 2. BY RECYCLING PAPER PRODUCTS: Elizabeth Kittell of Pretty in Patina in Omaha, NE, says her shopping bags and tissues are recycled plain brown bags that they hand rubber-stamp in the store. “We sent out between 750 to 1,000 shopping bags in the month of June alone,” she says.
  • 3. BY CHOOSING RENEWABLE MATERIALS: The fir and walnut wood used throughout Green Lake Jewelry Works’ Bellevue, WA, location was chosen to be sustainable. “We wanted to move away from mahogany, and we didn’t want to use any wood that would impact tropical rainforests,” says Jim Tuttle. Builders of J. David Jewelers in Tulsa, OK, framed the windows with squares made of recycled sugar cane, fashioned to look like 2-foot bronze tiles. Bill Welling, owner of Welling & Co. Jewelers in West Chester, OH, worked with interior designer Leslie McGwire on sustainability for his store. “Live Edge” recycled walnut tables are used to display jewelry.
  • 4. BY BUYING CARBON OFFSETS: “Since I don’t own my own building,” says Babs Noelle, of Alara in Bozeman, MT, “I can’t very well install solar panels or other carbon offsetting measures. I had to figure something else out.” She learned she could purchase carbon offsets through various organizations (,,, etc.). Most have a calculator on their website to determine the carbon footprint of your business based on electric and gas use, the mileage clocked by owners and staff travel. The business then purchases “offsets” that result in funds being spent elsewhere, such as developing wind and solar power.
  • 5. BY WASHING DISHES: Pamela Rossi of PJ Rossi Jewelers in Fort Lauderdale, FL: “We built a kitchen in the store, use regular plates and silverware and do our own dishes!”

Ideas to Green Your Store

Here are some real tips, both small and large, to making your store more earth-friendly, according to Jesse Balaity of Balaity Property Enhancement and Ruth Mellergaard of GRID/3 International.

  • Illuminate showcases with in-case and ceiling fixtures, but skip the general lighting along circulation paths. Reducing lighting on the floor between showcases helps the jewelry stand out by creating a rhythm of brighter and dimmer spaces throughout the store and reduces energy consumption. (BALAITY)
  • Use large-scale graphics in windows, especially those that are west-facing. The graphics double as sun shades and can be an effective marketing tool for drive-by traffic. (BALAITY) If not graphics, then add film, which can make the building more secure, save energy and redirect light into the store. <(MELLERGAARD)
  • Embrace modular carpet squares. Often dismissed as too expensive or too corporate, carpet squares are more cost-competitive and fashion-forward than ever. Instead of filling landfills with rolls of carpet every 10 years, you can replace just the squares in high traffic areas as needed. (BALAITY)
  • Stop it with the coffee pods and plastic water bottles! Customers will appreciate more labor-intensive beverage systems when pitched as part of an environmental initiative. (BALAITY)
  • Install light sensors like occupancy and vacancy sensors, plus natural-light-triggered time clocks and dimming controls. (MELLERGAARD)
  • Invest in exterior lights that control the direction of the light with “hats” that reduce the amount of light transmitted after dark. (MELLERGAARD)
  • Always look for low VOC (volatile oil compounds) products for painting or cleaning. (MELLERGAARD)
  • Add real plants to your interior. Try ficus, English ivy, spider plant, golden pothos and peace lily — all add oxygen to the air and remove carbon dioxide while eliminating common pollutants such as formaldehyde. (MELLERGAARD)
  • Use recycled materials such as carpet tile with recycled fiber or reclaimed wood. (MELLERGAARD)

Eileen McClelland is the Managing Editor of INSTORE. She believes that every jewelry store has the power of cool within them.



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All In The Family



At INSTORE, we often refer to family-owned jewelry stores as being the heart of the independent retail jewelry business. So, for our December issue, we’ve collected photos of some of the faces behind those family businesses. Whether they represent second- or fifth-generation jewelry families, they’ve learned something about how to navigate these close relationships and achieve a balance between their personal and work lives that transcend time and generational differences.

Brothers Gale and Flint Carpenter, from left, and Gale’s son, Chance.

An Unexpected Succession
Big Island Jewelers, Hawaii | Founded: 1983

When Chance Carpenter, already an entrepreneur in his own right, told his dad, Gale Carpenter, that he wanted to join the family jewelry business, Gale said it blew his mind. “He had never spoken to me about any interest in the business whatsoever,” Gale says. “I would have started grooming him much earlier.” Gale founded the business with his brother Flint, a goldsmith. When Chance joined the business in his mid-20s, he apprenticed with Flint, and when Flint wanted to retire at age 70, Gale bought him out through a stock-reduction plan. “Chance learned from a master working a foot away,” Gale says. “It was invaluable. Because you can’t learn 35 years of technique in a classroom. It just doesn’t work.” In another four to five years, Gale says, Chance will take over and begin buying his father out of the business.

1. Heather Wahl with her parents Bob and Barba Wahl. 2. Four generations, circa 1945. From left: F.X Wahl, F.C. (Frederick Charles) Wahl with baby R.C. (Robert Charles) Wahl, and F.F. Wahl. 3. A 1989 photo in front of the store’s original location 4. Barba in a 1970s era newspaper ad for the store.

125 years, five generations
R.C. Wahl Jewelers, Des Plaines, IL | Founded: 1894

“I am so proud of my family’s longevity in the jewelry industry!” says fifth-generation family member Heather Wahl, who is the first woman to own the business. “This year we are celebrating one family, five generations, 125 years!” Her parents, Bob and Barba Wahl, met at an Illinois Jewelers Association event in Springfield, IL, in the late ‘60s. “Mom worked at another jewelry store in Illinois and they were seated at the dinner together and the rest is history,” Heather says. Heather’s parents are retired from day-to-day operations but make special guest appearances and step in to help as needed. “They are fabulous sounding boards and have a wealth of background and knowledge to share,” she says.

Harold, Cathy & Hunter

Tivol, Kansas City | Founded: 1910

Charlie & Mollie Tivol

Immigrant Charles Tivol opened a jewelry shop in downtown Kansas City in 1910, meticulously crafting each piece of jewelry by hand and launching a family tradition that would continue through generations. His son Harold began working in the store as a boy, studied at the GIA and joined Tivol in 1946. In 2003, Tivol was recognized by the American Gem Society as top retail jeweler of the year. Harold’s daughter Cathy, representing the third generation, has worked in the family business for three decades. In 2010, Tivol celebrated a century in business, and a year later, Cathy’s son, Hunter Tivol McGrath, joined the company as a salesperson at the Hawthorne Plaza location, making him the fourth generation of the Tivol family to work for the company. Harold Tivol remained chairman until his death at the age of 92 on July 6, 2016.

Josephs Jewelers, Des Moines, IA | Founded: 1871

Toby Joseph, Trisha Joseph, Jake Joseph and Deb Joseph.

Jake and Trisha Joseph represent the fifth generation of the company founded by watchmaker Solomon Joseph in 1871 as a repair shop that also was officially in charge of timing the trains for the railroad. By the turn of the century, Josephs had expanded into fine jewelry and giftware. In 1934, Josephs was a founding member and investor in the American Gem Society. They attribute their success to respect, teamwork and a strong work ethic. “The Joseph family has always lived a modest life,” Deb Joseph says. “No one has ever had a second home or taken any more vacation than what their employees have. Toby is almost always the first one here in the morning and Jake, Trisha and I are usually in the group that is the last to leave the store.”

Tapper’s, Troy, MI / Founded: 1977

Founder Howard Tapper is the company’s CEO, brother Steven is vice-president, son Mark is president, daughter Marla Tapper Young is a director and Mark’s wife Leora is heavily involved in the store’s merchandising and runs its estate department. Mark ascribes the company’s success in part to the tight family bond they all share. “We hired a family business consultant who asked each of us individually, ‘There’s no wrong answer, but is it family first or business first?’ And each of us answered ‘family first.’ We don’t always agree, but once a final decision is made, we all get on the bus and start driving in one direction.”

Founder William Croghan’s granddaughters and great-granddaughters form the current management team.

Croghan’s Jewel Box, Charleston, SC | Founded: 1907

Mini and Kathleen Hay; Rhett Ramsay Outten, Mariana Ramsay Hay and their mother Mary Croghan Ramsay.

Founder William Croghan’s granddaughters and great-granddaughters watch over the store that William opened around 1930 at 308 King Street. By 2000, granddaughters Mariana Ramsay Hay and Rhett Ramsay Outten, the third generation, began to knock out walls and expand the jewelry business in that original building. They’ve since been joined by fourth-generation Mini Hay and Kathleen Hay. Says Rhett: “Too many retail jewelers hang onto the image or idea of who they’ve been in the past. Our survival has been based on ‘Let’s try it; let’s see what happens.’ We also believe that laughter is a cure for just about anything, so we laugh a lot. And probably most importantly, we are always counting our blessings and looking for ways to give back in a meaningful way to this community that has given us so much.”

Robert and Jonathan McCoy

Old Place, New Course
Mitchum Jewelers, Ozark, MO | Founded: 1965

Jonathan and Jennifer McCoy, left, with Robert McCoy and Samantha Smith, head of operations.

“When I was growing up, it was more like a routine,” says Randy Mitchum of the family store. “My dad, a watchmaker, went to work during the day, then he came home and we ate dinner and watched Wheel of Fortune.” Although he’d been assigned chores in the store, he never really thought of it as his life’s work. Randy graduated high school in 2000, but after a year in technical college, he lacked direction. “I asked my Dad, ‘Why don’t you let me work in the store part time?’ At first he told me, ‘No, I don’t think we’d get along very well.’ Then he needed someone after my first year in college and I started working in the store. The next semester came along and I wanted to work full time in the business.” Although he was trained on the bench, his dad told him, “You’re a hell of a better salesperson than you are a bench person. Why don’t you stay on the sales floor and make some money?” Randy never did go back to college. “Once I got into the store and started working, I saw some potential and started taking some ownership,” he says.

John Mitchum (right), shown with his son, Randy, purchased Trantham Jewelry in 1965. It came with a prominent, double-sided clock on the town square that now has a new name and a place of honor in their current location.

McCoy Jewelers, Dubuque, IA | Founded: 1973

The McCoys not only work together but also live above their business. Founder Robert McCoy, a master gemologist, jeweler and designer, lives on the third floor, and his son Jonathan and daughter-in-law Jennifer live on the second floor. Although semi-retired, Robert still works a couple of days a week on design and repairs. Jonathan is the head of bench operations, custom design, CAD/CAM and repairs; Jennifer oversees bridal and sales. “It’s hard to play hooky,” Jonathan admits. “My wife and I converse about the shop almost daily. Once you get in that mindset, it’s difficult to get out of it.”

Julia, Jeff and Daniel White

Jeff White Custom Jewelry, Las Vegas | Founded: 1995

When Jeff White opened Jeff White Custom Jewelry with 300 square feet in an office building, he received a stipulation from his wife, Michelle White. “My mom’s one condition was that he not be allowed to hire any of the kids,” says their son, Daniel White. Michelle came from a family business and knew the stresses associated with that kind of operation. Despite that warning, Daniel and his sister Julia both landed in the business (“I guess there are worse ways to rebel,” Daniel says). “My dad has cut back from his 60-80 hour work weeks — he has given me the ability to run and manage operations in the event he does decide to take off for a while. My sister, Julia, keeps our books clean and our staff happy. She is pregnant with her fourth child right now, but insists on coming in one day a week to manage the books and schedule, and when the holidays come around, she is our top salesperson. My brother, Joseph, got out of the business and became a hospital administrator; he still has an opinion on the direction of the business, but none of us listen. I have an older sister and a younger sister who are also not in the business, but they love jewelry and my dad loves giving it to them, so no one is complaining.” In total there are 11 grandchildren in the third generation.

Michael Kanoff and his father, Lenny Kanoff, became partners in 1996.

Michael’s Jewelers, Yardley and Fairless Hills, PA | Founded: 1976

Michael’s Jewelers was founded by Lenny and Karen Kanoff in 1976, but the family’s jewelry roots run deeper than that. In 1918, Daniel Kanoff, a watchmaker and silversmith, emigrated from Russia to the U.S. and got a job working for a watch repair house in Philadelphia. A decade later, he opened his own business, Philadelphia Case & Repair. Daniel’s son Irving became a watchmaker, and his grandson Lenny became a retailer. Their son, Michael, fell in love with the business. “I knew I wanted to be in the jewelry business since I was 2 years old,” Michael says. After he earned his GG from the GIA, he worked at a variety of jobs in the industry. “In 1996, I was working as a jewelry rep in Atlanta, and I got a call from my father,” Michael recalls. “He said they were building a shopping center in Yardley and asked if I would like to partner with him and open a store in my hometown. So in 1997, we closed our Richboro store and we opened Michael’s Jewelers Yardley.” Michael says he is living his dream by owning a jewelry store and raising his three children, ages 9 to 13, in his hometown. “At this point, my children don’t have any interest in the jewelry business, but that might change,” Michael says.

Fourth-generation jeweler Sarah Hurwitz Robey, her parents, Jeff and Patty Hurwitz, and her sons, Tucker and Lincoln.

Colonial Jewelers, Frederick, MD | Founded: 1920

Fourth-generation jeweler Sarah Hurwitz Robey has brought her sons Tucker and Lincoln with her to work since they were 6 weeks old, with the help of her mom, Patty Hurwitz, and a babysitter. “We have an awesome staff who are like family to us and are very understanding of all of the nuances of working for a family business, whether it is Lincoln learning to crawl on the sales floor or Tucker running in from preschool excited to show everyone what he made that day. I feel like I have a dream situation. I get to work at the store, which I have always been very passionate about, as well as have my babies close to me.” The business was founded in 1920 by Sarah’s great-grandfather, Benjamin Hurwitz. Sarah’s father Jeff Hurwitz, president of Colonial, learned the business from his own parents, Will and Marilyn. They’ve had a recent surprise addition to the family lineup at work: “My 94-year-old great-uncle, who worked in the business with my grandfather, recently came out of retirement and is our official Saturday greeter. He’s a huge hit with our customers, may of whom remember him from years ago,” Sarah says. “I don’t ever want to put any pressure on my boys (the way I was never pressured) but I am hoping that having them here so young may instill in them the same love of the business that I have,” she says.

Spath Jewelers, Bartow, FL | Founded: 1986

Tina and Gene Spath, from left, work with their daughter Emily and son-in-law Matthew Clark.

Spath Jewelers founders and owners Tina and Gene Spath work with their daughter, Emily Clark, and her husband, Matthew Clark, who both have the title VP of operations. Tina handles community relations and marketing. Gene works as a liaison between their two locations and oversees jewelry and watch repair. Emily is custom design manager and oversees diamond sales, HR, scheduling and marketing. Matthew handles inventory, staff training and development, marketing and sales. “In a small business, there is a lot of overlap in job responsibilities, and you eventually become a jack-of-all-trades,” Matthew says. “The way to succeed in a family business is to help and advise other family members in their areas of focus when they request the advice, and stay in your lane when advice is not needed or requested. A wise man one said, ‘You never want too many cooks in the kitchen or the food will come out tasting like you know what … ‘”

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Getting Along in the Family Business



Mark Tapper wasn’t sure, as a young man, whether he wanted to join the family business in Michigan. He was motivated to work on Wall Street, first, which he did, but still realized he felt a pull to be an owner operator, to chart his own destiny. That idea kept him coming back to considering the family business.

“During summers, when I had the opportunity to come home, I worked in the business,” Tapper says. A turning point came when he worked with a customer to repair the watch their son had been wearing when he was killed in a car crash. “I created an emotional bond over that repair and felt more of a connection with the business. I realized that we see our guests at the best times of their lives and at the lowest times of their lives, and we can develop long-term relationships with them.”

When Mark did join Tapper’s, his father and uncle were ready to slow down a little bit. “My dad realized he wasn’t connecting with younger generations, and my sister and I were young and ambitious; little by little, he gave us more responsibility and opportunity. My dad coached us, but he handed over the reins and allowed us to make mistakes and have successes.” 

David Brown of the Edge Retail Academy says such openness is key to family harmony. While the younger family member needs to be open to learning from the older generation, the older generation benefits from being receptive to new business methods and opportunities. “We live in dynamic times, and what got you there won’t keep you there,” Brown says.

Outside experience, whether in or out of the jewelry business, can be invaluable. Kate Peterson of Performance Concepts says that ideally, family members should spend a year or more working with another, similar jeweler in another part of the country, learning sales and operations as an employee rather than as an heir.

Peterson also advises owners to be sensitive to their existing associates when bringing new family members into the fold. “Communicate honestly with staff members about your hopes and expectations for your son or daughter, about the steps you’ve taken to ensure his or her value and contribution to the team, and about how you see the chain of command evolving — both in the short and long term.”

Peterson says it’s important, although challenging, for the owner of the company to separate their roles as business owner and parent.

“Talk to your son or daughter as you would to any person applying for an eventual management position with your company,” she says. “You’ll want to make sure that your objectives, as well as your understanding of career path and process, are compatible. Now is the time to discuss timelines, expectations and performance standards.”

Mike Kanoff of Michael’s Jewelers in Yardley, PA, says he started at the bottom of the family business, an experience which, looking back as an adult, he recognizes as formative. “This is what made me the person I am,” he says. He advises patience on everyone’s part, because despite the best of intentions, parents will inevitably view their offspring as children, no matter their age or experience. “Don’t take it personally; it happens to all of us,” he says. “They will appreciate you more as they and you both get older and grow together.”

When a family member joins the firm, says Toby Joseph of Josephs Jewelers in Des Moines, IA, they will benefit from exposure to different areas of business to figure out what they enjoy. Discuss among family members and key members of the team how you can find someone to take on areas in which no one is strong or interested.

Sarah Hurwitz Robey credits a clear division of labor for ease of operation at her family’s store, Colonial Jewelers in Frederick, MD. Everyone plays to their strengths. “It’s not always perfect, but having different areas that we are responsible for, which happen to be the ones we enjoy the most, helps to give us all our own space to do things our own way.

“For example, my dad is responsible for diamond buying and inventory controls. He is really great at keeping our inventory lean and turning well to leverage our buying to make it as profitable as possible. So when a question comes up about bringing in more merchandise, I would defer to him on the purchasing budget, but we would pick out styles together. One of my areas is marketing, and while we will collaborate on the marketing budget for the year, the details of the way we spend it and the creative aspects are up to me. My mom, whose pre-jewelry store background was in social work, is our master of dealing with staff, customer relations and community philanthropy.”

Rhett Ramsay Outten, who owns Croghan’s in Charleston, SC, with her sister Mariana Ramsay Hay, says her third and fourth-generation family management team would all agree that working together is one of the thrills of their lives. “Our relationships have evolved and matured, and honestly, we really just like each other. The interesting thing about our situation is that we all bring very different strengths and weaknesses to the table. We know our lane and we have allowed each other to lead and excel in the area in which we each thrive.”

The Tapper family has been open to innovation and new ideas as younger family members come aboard.

Outten is the creative one, while her sister is a problem solver and planner. “Next generation Mini and Kathleen are similarly opposites. Kathleen has a love of spreadsheets and data and enjoys the analysis of numbers. Mini is an artist and designer, our style director. They work beautifully together.”

Although they have very different skill sets, they all share the values handed down from their grandfather and mother, she says, which include a deep faith, a belief in ethics and honesty and putting family first. “On challenging days, sometimes you just have to wake up and decide that the most important thing is to get along,” she says. “Our mother would expect that of us.”


W hen Mark Tapper moved into the business, the Tapper family met individually with a family business consultant, who asked each of them if the family or the business came first for them and told them there was no right answer. “We all answered family first,” Tapper says. “So we had that as our foundation that the decisions we are going to make are for the family. That really helps drive the family culture, the business culture and the business performance.

“When things aren’t at their best, it’s because we aren’t communicating,” Tapper says. “The more you can talk and plan and be open and honest with one another, it benefits the family and it benefits the business.”

Brown says that effective, regular (timely), structured communication and meetings are vital, but only if they have context. If people don’t know what the goals and objectives are and where they all fit in, there isn’t much to discuss.  With those things in place, family members should meet weekly for an hour to review what’s working and what’s not.

Third and fourth generation owners of Croghan’s Jewel Box say that working together is one of the thrills of their lives, but on challenging days, they make the decision to “just get along.”

At Croghan’s, Outten says the family meets once a week with their CFO, their head of HR and their store manager. “This is where we discuss all of our plans, problems and triumphs,” Outten says. “It is a crucial part of our success and allows us to be on the same page as well as to be intentional in both short and long-term planning.”

Brown notes that multiple generations working together must know and agree on the short-term (one year), medium-term (five years) and long-term (five years and beyond) goals and objectives of the business and the family members involved. It’s important to discuss expectations upfront, including who will be running the business in the future. “There are few things more destabilizing than surprises, such as one of the younger generation thinking they will be taking over the business only to find someone else is earmarked for that role,” Brown says.

Other important topics are: How do the current owners get paid? How do they make it equitable? “There is nothing worse than close family members falling out due to a lack of understanding about where they fit in and how it is all going to work,” Brown says.


O wners may discover that family and quality of life issues are at the forefront of expectations when it comes to millennial and Gen Z employees. “Expect to hear ‘I can’t put in the kind of hours you did’ and avoid the temptation to utter the dreaded phrase, ‘Pay your dues,’” Peterson says.

Robey is grateful that her parents recognized how important it was to her to bring her young sons to work, ever since they were six weeks old. “If someone just needs a hug from Mommy, I am right here,” she says.

Matthew Clark joined his wife’s family’s business, Spath Jewelers, in Bartow, FL. Emily works there, too, and they both have the title of vice president of operations. For them, working together is quality of life. “People are amazed that I work 10 hour days with my wife and say they could never do it,” Clark says. “But I could not imagine working 10-hour days away from her and coming home to see her just a couple hours before having to go to bed. I know it would not work for everyone, but we are very blessed to make it work and I would not have it any other way. ”

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Tacos, Tequila and Tattoos: Gold Casters’ Contest Draws a Diverse Crowd in Bloomington, IN

Unusual event infuses King Baby jewelry line launch with excitement.



Flyers combined with a radio and social-media marketing campaign created interest.

FINE JEWELRY STORES often face the challenge of balancing elegance with approachability. Tequila, tacos and tattoos go a long way toward melting the ice, discovered Brad Lawrence of Gold Casters Fine Jewelry in Bloomington, IN.

Lawrence, who specializes in bridal jewelry and high-end watches, found a fun way to break down those threshold barriers on a Saturday with, of all things, a social-media-friendly tattoo contest to introduce the jewelry line King Baby.

Lawrence considered it the perfect complement for King Baby, which he describes as having an edgy biker look. In addition, he surmised that people who like to adorn their body with works of art would also find a deep personal connection with jewelry.

“We are what would be called a guild jeweler, and we are always trying to look for ideas that are more on the casual side,” Lawrence says. “Most of our events in the past have been black-tie or at least more traditional.” Yet Bloomington, IN, is a college town where students make up a significant percentage of the 100,000 population.

He called the event Tacos, Tequila and Tattoos.

Once he had conceived the idea, Lawrence worked with his affiliated marketing experts on getting the word out. The store placed flyers with a Harley Davidson dealer and biker bars, along with a bevy of print and social media marketing created by Porte Marketing. The event was also promoted with a radio campaign orchestrated by Roy Williams.

On the day of the event, margarita-sipping shoppers lined up for the taco bar, purchased pieces from the jewelry collection and were invited to share the story of their tattoos with the store staff, who judged the contest. Each participant received a $25 gift certificate. The contest winner received a $250 gift certificate.

Those who shared their tattoo stories defied any stereotypical expectations. “It was a much more diverse crowd than I would have expected,” Lawrence says. “We had people in their 60s and 70s with tattoos. Some people had full sleeves.

Several people had investments of $10,000 or more in tattoos.

“The event was very inclusive of our community and yet brought in a different demographic for us. It was a way of gaining new customers and having people feel more comfortable. Without question, 90 percent of the people we saw that day were new faces.”

After the event, the marketing team invited others among the tattoo-clad Bloomington population to share photos and stories of their tattoos on Gold Casters’ social media, continuing to give participants $25 gift certificates and also selecting an online winner by Facebook vote, who was awarded another $250 gift certificate.

The stories behind the tattoos turned out to be fascinating, Lawrence says, and in all about 100 people shared their stories in store or online with photos or videos.

King Baby is known as a men’s line, primarily, which the store needs, but it also has the magical versatility of being unisex. “We turned our entire investment in the line,” he says. “We sold all of the highest-end pieces we had in stock.”

The event attracted media coverage on social channels, on the radio and in the newspaper. “It was very well received by the community. People are still talking about it today.”



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