(PRESS RELEASE) Brazilian jewelry designer Silvia Furmanovich unveiled her latest collection entitled “Quintessence”, debuting at the Couture Jewelry Show in Las Vegas from May 30th to June 2nd, 2024.
Inspired by the enigmatic world of alchemy, Furmanovich delves into its symbolism and philosophy. Like the alchemists of old who sought to transmute base metals into gold, Furmanovich traverses the globe in search of talent and natural materials, transforming them into precious works of art.
With its celestial motifs, vibrant colors, echoes of medieval and Tibetan art, and an array of animal and natural symbols, the collection introduces new techniques and revisits the ones that are the foundation of the brand, such as Amazonian marquetry and Rajasthani miniature painting.
In ‘Quintessence’, the designer explore the symbolism of the alchemical processes through contrasting themes such as The Sky x The Earth, The Moon x The Sun and Femininity x Masculinity. Just as the alchemist seeks to distill the essence of nature, Furmanovich seeks to distill the essence of culture and craft.
Drawing inspiration from ancient cultures, medieval alchemists blended philosophy, spirituality, and practicality in their quest for enlightenment. They saw a deep connection between the cosmos and our lives, symbolized by the concept of ‘as above, so below’.
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Just as the alchemists sought to unravel the mysteries of the universe, Furmanovich delicately weaves threads of ancient traditions into her creations. This connection, akin to a golden thread running through the fabric of existence, brings a tangible sense of harmony and depth to her jewelry. Each piece becomes a portal, inviting wearers to explore the symbiosis of all things and discover the transformative potential within themselves.
Notably, the collection introduces two new techniques: lacquered marquetry and woven horse mane micro-sculptures. In the innovative lacquered marquetry process, slivers of wood are enhanced by an ultra-glossy, vitrified coating, resembling traditional lacquer. Overlaid with delicate gold detailing and precious stones, these pieces create new, yet still ultralight silhouettes. The woven horse mane microsculptures, handcrafted by female artisans of Colombia and Chile, use natural or pigmented individual strands of horse mane, reinforced with agave fibers for structure and shape.
“The name ‘Quintessence’, represents the fifth and highest element in ancient philosophy, the essence that permeates all of nature; the purest form of beauty and creativity”, says Furmanovich. “In this collection, we strive to capture that essence and transmute it into wearable art.”
About Silvia Furmanovich
Since launching her brand over 20 years ago, Silvia Furmanovich has become one of the most visionary artists working in fine jewelry today.
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Born in São Paulo, Brazil, Silvia Furmanovich comes from a long line of Italian goldsmiths; her great-grandfather made ornaments for the Vatican, and as a child, Furmanovich spent hours observing her goldsmith father in his atelier. In 1998, she launched her own collection and opened her first boutique in São Paulo in 2009. Today, she has one flagship, along with her own atelier, in São Paulo, and she is joined in the business by her three sons.
Furmanovich draws on varied cultural and historical references and traditions – from Japan and India to Italy and the Amazonian Rainforests – but she takes these inspirations to an entirely new level, re-imagining and refreshing them through her in-depth exploration of materials and techniques. These include intricate wood marquetry to capture Brazil’s rich flora and fauna, Mughal romance portrayed through Indian miniature painting, Japanese bamboo basketwork reinterpreted using Amazonian bamboo, and jewels set with antique Roman micromosaics, a homage to her Italian heritage. All come to life through her courageous use of colour, particularly the coloured gems that are Brazil’s birthright.
Furmanovich has designed special collections in collaboration with key cultural institutions around the world. In 2022, at the invitation of The Metropolitan Museum of Art and designer Madeline Weinrib, Furmanovich designed a series of jewelry pieces for The Heirloom Project, which celebrated the 10th anniversary of The Met’s reimagined Islamic Wing by seeking engagement with global craftspeople who pursue ancient techniques and design principles. More recently, Furmanovich collaborated with The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston as an extension of The Heirloom Project.
In 2023, the designer developed a line of homeware collection for Asprey, the iconic British retailer of jewelry, leather, silver and other luxury goods.
Furmanovich has won the prestigious Couture Design Award four times; in 2015, 2016, 2019 and 2022, always within the ‘Innovation’ category. Her India Collection won the 2018 Town & Country Jewelry Award in the ‘Collection of the Year’ category. The designer was a nominee for the Jewelry Design Award at the Jewelers of America’s GEM Awards 2019. Furmanovich’s Egypt Collection won the ‘New Hall of Famer’ category in the 2022 Town & Country Jewelry Awards, and she was honored with the ‘People’s Choice’ prize for her Silk Road collection during the 2022 Couture Design Awards.