The Modern Guide To Vintage Jewellery (ACC Artbooks) picks up as a companion to The Modern Guide To Antique Jewellery (ACC Artbooks, 2022). With this book, I trace the evolution of jewelry design from the 1930s through the early 1980s. This lavishly illustrated tome covers the different eras with an anecdotal, down-to-earth approach and features the modern innovations of the 1930s, the wartime ingenuity of the ’40s, the charm-laden optimism of the ’50s, the rebellious and revolutionary times of the ’60s, the glitter and glamour of the ’70s and the confident sophistication of the early ’80s. Throughout, I cover the renowned houses and jewelers that helped define each decade. Additionally, I delve deeply into the cultural shifts of each era, which influenced the style signatures, materials, and fine craftsmanship that define vintage jewelry. Guidance on how to wear, what to look for, and how to buy vintage jewelry is provided with quotes from leading dealers, shops and auction houses, creating an accessible tool that I hope will resonate with today’s starter and consummate collectors.

The Retro Period

The Retro period, from the late 1930s to the early 1950s, coincides with pre-war, WWII and the post-war years. The jewelers of the Retro period created bold, futuristic looks with limited resources at accessible prices. Today’s retailers with vintage departments have delved into purchasing pieces from this period due to how the designs played with weight and scale, shaping metals to be larger and rounded and more three-dimensional, along with the enthusiastic use of colored stones. They are also adding pieces from the post-war years, which featured a more fluid, yet still bold, approach with animal and floral motifs, as well as textile-inspired designs, including bows, knots, ribbons and tassels, which continued into the ’50s. The popular styles are also influencing contemporary designers who are creating styles that give a nod to the bold statement looks of this time.

Cartier convertible ‘Night and Day’ diamond brooch, circa 1945. The petals rotate to transform from plain gold to diamond-encrusted, allowing the wearer to transition their jewelry seamlessly from day to evening wear.

Courtesy of M.S. Rau, ©ACC ARTBOOKS

The Retro Period

Peter Schaffer, co-owner of A La Vieille Russie in New York City, notes in the book: “Although each period has its unique charm, the styles of Retro work with the widest range of modern fashion trends for any time of day. This aspect is alluring to a new generation of jewelry enthusiasts and provides strong, impactful pieces for today’s collectors.”

18K gold triangular ‘Tubogas’ bracelet with bombé- peaked links, bound by three stepped bands star-set with old single-cut diamond accents, French, circa 1940s.

Courtesy of the Macklowe Gallery, ©ACC ARTBOOKS

The Retro Period

Jewels were designed to give the appearance of being heavy even when they were not. “Tubogas”, which translates literally to ‘gas pipe’ in Italian, is created from a pair of interlocking gold strips wrapped tightly together to form a flexible and hollow tubular length that does not need to be soldered. Initially used industrially, it first made its jewelry debut during pre-WWII times and remained in style through the post war years. This technique was utilized and made famous in Bulgari’s Serpenti designs, which became popular again in the late 1960s and ’70s.

Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Tubogas’ gold necklace, circa 1940.

Courtesy of M.S. Rau, ©ACC ARTBOOKS

The Retro Period

Benjamin Macklowe of Macklowe Gallery in New York City adds: “A visually striking appearance and ease of wear have led to the renewed interest in Retro jewelry among collectors. Yellow gold, a prevalent material in these pieces, seamlessly integrates into daily attire, allowing for versatile dressing options. As a result, we’ve seen an increase in prices, especially for sought-after styles like tank bracelets.” He continues: “While the use of less-expensive materials during the war years may have initially influenced prices, the growing demand for Retro jewelry has contributed to its appreciation in value.”

18K gold tank-track, concave-link bracelet, Italian, circa 1945.

Courtesy of A La Vieille Russie, ©ACC ARTBOOKS

The Charm Laden 1950s

The 1950s was a decade of optimism and prosperity both in the USA and Europe. The war years had ended, and a new way of life started to emerge. In the States, suburban housing developments were sprouting up. There was a different outlook on women’s roles – they no longer needed to work in factories, and marriage was on the rise among younger couples. Women were encouraged to be homemakers and raise families while their husbands went off to work, so they could have what was considered the ‘American Dream’. It was the cocktail party era, during which neighbors dressed up on weekends and got together at each other’s homes. Couples also went out into the city to supper clubs, the theatre, and nights on the town. In jewelry, although there was a comeback of the big three – sapphires, emeralds and rubies – semi-precious gems popularized in the Retro period continued throughout the 1950s.

Cartier citrine, diamond and ruby bracelet, set in yellow gold, circa 1950.

Courtesy of M.S. Rau, ©ACC ARTBOOKS

The Charm Laden 1950s

Bill Rau, third generation owner of the shop M.S. Rau in New Orleans, explains: “After the years of WWII austerity, there was a real shift in the mood in the early 1950s. People were building new lives, and that feeling was reflected in the jewelry. It wasn’t about practicality anymore; the jewelry of the era was about joy, exuberance, and expressing one’s personality. It’s important to remember the incredible craftsmanship behind these pieces, too. The established European Maisons like Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels were still at the top of their game, creating works of art. But there was also a rise in American jewelry designers who were pushing the boundaries of design and innovation. It was a truly exciting time in the jewelry world.”

Aquamarine and diamond-set bracelet in the form of two juxtaposed flower heads, set with brilliant-cut diamonds and baguette-cut aquamarines, with a detachable clip brooch fitting on one of the flowers, by Paul Flato, New York, circa 1950.

© Wartski, ©ACC ARTBOOKS

The Charm Laden 1950s

There was a return to white gold and platinum, which had been restricted for much of the ’40s due to the war effort. The styles of the decade were defined by statement pieces: chunky yellow gold, ribbons and bows made of precious metals, and diamonds set once again in white metal.

Pair of swirl clip earrings, 18K yellow gold and platinum with pavé-set diamonds, by Cartier, London, circa 1950.

Courtesy of A La Vieille Russie, ©ACC ARTBOOKS

The Charm Laden 1950s

The cocktail ring was one of the main jewels of the period, which first appeared on women’s fingers in the later part of the Art Deco period. Different stones and three-dimensional motifs created a look that was exciting and featured a variety of different gemstones, cuts and configurations that were filled with character.

Siberian amethyst and diamond cocktail ring, American, circa 1950.

Courtesy of A La Vieille Russie, ©ACC ARTBOOKS

The Charm Laden 1950s

There was a clear division between night and day jewels, which had not been seen throughout the war years. Yellow gold was still popular for daytime, while white metals set with dazzling diamonds and precious gemstones were renewed in all categories of jewelry, with various shapes and cuts, such as marquises, baguettes, princess and pear cuts mixed in single pieces, reminiscent of Art Deco jewels.

Diamond and platinum bracelet. The round- and baguette-cut diamonds create a graceful and elegant waving-fan pattern.

Courtesy of M.S. Rau, ©ACC ARTBOOKS

The Charm Laden 1950s

The ’50s heralded the return of celebratory and sentimental charms not seen since the Victorian era. After WWII, there was a new light-hearted feeling that spread throughout the country, influencing mothers, their daughters, sisters, and female friends and peers. In effect, every woman desired a charmed life or charms dangling from bracelets commemorating significant moments and occasions. First Lady Mamie Eisenhower, Natalie Wood, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor and Lucille Ball were all famous owners of charm bracelets, who collected bespoke charms that had true emotional value and also provided a dose of high style in the ’50s.

14K gold charm set with colored stones and engraved with ‘Je t’aime’ (I love you).

Courtesy of Amie Park, ©ACC ARTBOOKS

The Charm Laden 1950s

The suburban life with its cocktail parties and activities that revolved around family led to charms that reflected an abundance of styles, representing everything from travel and vacation spots to hobbies, sports, birthdays, anniversaries and the birth of children. Life was recorded and chronicled on a woman’s wrist.

14K gold ‘I love you’ puzzle with ruby bail, by Henry Dankner & Sons, circa 1950s.

Courtesy of Amie Park, ©ACC ARTBOOKS.

The Charm Laden 1950s

Charms representing so many aspects of a woman’s life also made it easy for men to select gifts for every occasion imaginable.

14K gold ‘love’ charm, circa 1950s.

Courtesy of Lee Krombholz, ©ACC ARTBOOKS.

The Charm Laden 1950s

The designs of renowned Houses of the day that created charm bracelets provided a dose of high style and also a dash of wit and whimsy. Such houses included David Webb, William Ruser, Paul Flato, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. But women could also find the charms at various price points.

18K gold charm set with coral and turquoise hearts, by Cartier.

Courtesy of Keyamour, ©ACC ARTBOOKS

The Charm Laden 1950s

Fast forward to modern times, and these little keepsakes of memories and moments, art and sentiment, luck and protection have become the gold standard of style once again. They are being mixed with modern designer charms and are worn more often on the now iconic charm necklace. They might take patience and perseverance to score and require a higher price than you originally planned to pay, but many are still on the market today.

-14K gold clover charm with sapphires, by Cartier, New York, circa 1950s.

Courtesy of Amie Park, ©ACC ARTBOOKS.