I HAVE TO ADMIT it. Even after 25 years as a jewelry journalist for magazines and author of jewelry books, I still believed that jewelry for men should consist of a killer watch, a wedding band (if married) and a pair of vintage cufflinks. Beyond that I could see a cool silver bracelet, or a talisman necklace on younger men. But the male celebrities wearing brooches at red carpet events over the past five or more years changed my views, and they looked pretty damn debonair on the lapel of a tuxedo jacket. However, the 2022 Emmys widened the scope of what I deemed elegant and dashing for men. The two young men who helped changed my viewpoint were the Nicholases: Nicholas Braun and Nicholas Hoult. They wore very different styles, but both looked like the equivalent of the A-list actresses who are bringing back Hollywood’s glamorous heyday.
Let’s start with Braun, who accented his Dior white tux and white shirt with Cartier Art Deco clips on his shirt collars. Traditionally the clips could be worn as one larger clip or split into two smaller ones. (Braun wears them split.) The “clips” were a type of brooch but did not pierce the fabric; rather, they clipped onto the fabric, as the name would imply. In the 1920s and ’30s they were worn by women on everything from hats to scarves, lapels, dresses and even shoes. This look is a welcome step up from the “man brooch” that is mostly worn on the lapel and sometimes, if it is wider, pins the front of a shirt.
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Hoult wore two necklaces close to the collar of his white shirt. One that was an antique sterling silver and paste riviere necklace from Briony Raymond, and the other was a yellow gold and diamond wide curb link necklace from Neil Lane Couture. You might think the antique paste (created in the 18th century to look like diamonds) and a wide curb link chain would not work together, but they did with a contemporary flair. Hoult finished off the look with a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch. The style was dapper yet masculine at the same time.
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After watching the 2022 Emmys, I have a new prospective on men and jewelry, but I hope I don’t se see my significant other borrowing my antique brooches or retro clips. He’s definitely the vintage watch and cufflinks type of man, plus I can’t remember the last time we went black tie.