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I’ve worked on and off for INSTORE over the past 14 years, and during that time, I’ve written four books. For my latest, The Modern Guide to Antique Jewellery (ACC Artbooks, May 2022), Editor-in-Chief Trace Shelton told me: “It will be more fun to hear about the book from your point of view and for you to choose your favorite jewels.” So that is what I am doing now — I’m giving you a sneak peek at the book through this gallery of antique jewelry that set trends that lasted far into the future.

The Modern Guide to Antique Jewellery ©ACC Artbooks

STORY BY BETH BERNSTEIN

The book is similar to a tour guide, starting in the 1700s and going through to the 1920s at the beginning of the Art Deco movement. It imparts the type of educational information that all stages of jewelry collectors, as well as jewelry enthusiasts from students to dealers, will go back to again and again. In it, I reveal how to spot, score and style rare and authentic pieces. I examine past eras and discuss what was and still is popular from each time period. I also offer insider knowledge and trade secrets from top dealers and high-end shop owners, quoting the most authoritative and trustworthy that I have met over the years. The book also includes a shopping directory. Most importantly, it features jewels of the past and how to look modern and chic wearing them in the present. This gallery depicts photos featured within the book (and yes, some of my favorite jewels). I have chosen to show the photos out of time sequence to display the breadth of their relevance today.

All photos copyrighted ©ACC Artbooks and the dealers and stores that provided the photos.

Black onyx, coral and diamond tiara, French, circa 1920. Courtesy of Simon Teakle

A River of Gems: Rivière necklaces from the 19th century in amethyst, garnet and pink topaz. All courtesy of Fred Leighton

A Glowing Example: Georgian rose-cut diamond ring, circa 1820. Courtesy of Keyamour. Photograph: Rockstone Studios, Brian Moghadam

Graduating Ahead of The Class: Three-tiered necklace comprising of three rows of alternating pink and orange garnets set in elaborately textured gold collets with delicate looping design elements, circa 1900-10. From each tier of the necklace hang tear-shaped boulder opal beads. Courtesy of Macklowe Gallery. Photograph: Anthony Virardi at Macklowe Gallery

Icon of Style: Turquoise serpent necklace with diamond and garnet-set head in 18K gold, circa 1860. Courtesy of Kentshire. Photograph: Kevin Kish for Kentshire, NYC

Message from the Heart: Yellow gold acrostic bracelet with multiple gemstone heart sections. Features an acrostic message, diamonds for endurance and the iconography of jeweled double hearts framed by diamonds. Each double heart consists of a pear-shaped rose-cut diamond to the left and pear-shaped gemstone to the right, the first letters of the stones to the right spell the message “DEAREST,” circa 1880. Courtesy of Wartski London

The Stars Are Out: Enamel and diamond “Bague au Firmament” ring. France, circa 1770s. Courtesy of Métier Paris, photographed by owner Alexandra Hutchings

Be Happy You Found This: Hinged gold and polychrome enamel bracelet, designed as a studded horseshoe, inscribed with “Porte Bonheur” in 14K gold and platinum, circa 1880. Courtesy of Kentshire. Photograph: Kevin Kish for Kentshire, NYC

The Height of Romance: Plique-à-jour pendant necklace depicting a gold Juliet at the moment when Romeo sees her on her balcony. Juliet is highlighted by peridots and pendant freshwater pearls. Plique-à-jour enamel windowpanes glow behind, while sparkling diamonds framing her head represent the dawn light. France, circa 1900. Courtesy of Anthony Virardi at Macklowe Gallery

Diamonds and Pearls, Oh My: Edwardian natural pearl and diamond pendant earrings by Ghiso, circa 1900. Courtesy of Pat Saling Jewelry Collection

In Black and White: Diamond bracelet set with calibré onyx in oblong motifs, in platinum, France, circa 1920. Courtesy of Kentshire. Photograph: Kevin Kish at Kentshire NYC

The Way To Transform: Diamond starburst tiara in silver on gold, with three removable starbursts that transform into brooches, circa 1870. Courtesy of Pat Saling Jewelry Collection

Night and Day, You Are the One: Victorian mine-cut pear-shaped diamond transformable pendant earrings, set in silver and gold. The lower surrounding diamond cluster is removable, making a pair of simple, old-mine pear-shaped diamond drop earrings, English, circa 1860. Courtesy of A La Vieille Russie

These Antique Jewels Set the Trends We’re Still Following Today

These Antique Jewels Set the Trends We’re Still Following Today

I’ve worked on and off for INSTORE over the past 14 years, and during that time, I’ve written four books. For my latest, The Modern Guide to Antique Jewellery (ACC Artbooks, May 2022), Editor-in-Chief Trace Shelton told me: “It will be more fun to hear about the book from your point of view and for you to choose your favorite jewels.” So that is what I am doing now — I’m giving you a sneak peek at the book through this gallery of antique jewelry that set trends that lasted far into the future.

The Modern Guide to Antique Jewellery ©ACC Artbooks

STORY BY BETH BERNSTEIN