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Jewelry continues to be inspired by the past with independent designers delving into different periods and different cultures from ancient civilizations to Georgian through Art Deco designs. Some are inspired by the actual jewels, others by techniques and still others by paintings of a particular time and all have constructed pieces that feel modern and relevant for today.

By Beth Bernstein

Taylor Russell in Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co clip earrings at the 2024 International Venice Film Festival that hark back to the clip earrings of the 1950s, early 60s. PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

Jenn Brezen. Mined + Found

“Influenced by Victorian era sovereign coin cases, my Direction Major pendant carries a more mystical kind of currency inside: a decision coin to aid in determining our paths through daily choices. One side reads ‘Highly Likely’, while the other, ‘Nothing is Certain.’ The gem set compass rose design on the front of the case took shape after researching Victorian and earlier period cartography.”

Direction Major pendant in 14K yellow gold with an Australian black opal center, trillion and pavé diamonds, and combined blue sapphire, pink sapphire (on coin), and tsavorite garnet.

minedandfound.com

$13,070

Coomi, Coomi Jewels

“I was inspired by pre-Colombian North Coast Peru, Moche to Chimu culture, ca. 300-1300 CE. For these earrings. I have accented the Moche 93% silver bird beads with 20K gold and antique diamonds for an elegant tribute to historical and symbolic jewelry. Birds through time have represented freedom, exploration, peace and strength, and I believe we need more of all these aspects in our lives today.”

Inca Silver bird earrings with 2.44 TCW of diamonds.

coomi.com

Price upon request

Zoe Benyon, Robinson Pelham

“The Daystar collection is inspired by a beloved Georgian shield pendant that belonged to my co-founder’s grandmother. The shield-shaped earrings are set with two central double cut stones, a slim, elegant half-moon and a drop shield, exclusively cut for us. The color combinations and in particular the rainbow reinvigorate the original shield and elevate our influence with a cool and contemporary feeling.”

Robinson Pelham Rock crystal with rainbow sapphire and tsavorite accents in 14K yellow gold.

robinsonpelham.com

$6,861

Tini Courtney, HOWL (Handle Only With Love)

“The Art Deco period has a thumbprint on this collection. Growing up in Miami, I was surrounded by the magic of the architecture that was found in this era. The forms and design are buried in my subconscious,  which then found their own unique way into the essence of the collection.”

18K yellow gold with burnished set baguette cut diamonds and diamonds around the band.

handleonlywithlove.com

$14,400

Susan Cohen, Circa 1700

“My fossilized Zodiac Shark Tooth is a talisman that’s been a part of antiquity for thousands of years. I have designed it to be bold and romantic and added constellations to celebrate what’s written in the stars.”

One-of-a-kind 18K gold and antique fossilized shark’s tooth with diamond constellations.

@circa1700

Price upon request

Erica Molinari, Erica Molinari

“I am inspired by multiple time periods, from the Renaissance through Art Nouveau, but for this collection, I was drawn to the beautiful and meaningful floral engravings of the Victorian period as well as the lockets that were so popular during that time and held secret tokens of affection or photos of loved ones. To bring it into a modern context, I have used an emerald baguette in the center of a more geometric shaped locket that speaks to what’s relevant today.”

18K hand-engraved rectangular locket with emerald baguette.

ericamolinari.com

$3,985

Hiba Husayni, Zahn Z

“The Sadaf Eternity Band is inspired by the legacy of Damascus Mosaic, a mesmerizing craft that has
surrounded me since childhood. I remember wandering through the old souk of Damascus,
captivated by artisans meticulously cutting and assembling tiny pieces of mother-of-pearl into
wooden cabinets, chairs, and beds. My goal was to preserve the heritage and celebrate this rich craftsmanship and artistry by blending traditional techniques with modern elegance.”

Sadaf Diamond Mosaic Rounded Band in 14K with cut natural mother-of-pearl, black enamel and white

zahnzjewelry.com

$8,560

Gwen Barba, Gwen Barba

“The shape of this ring is inspired by Victorian navette rings and the vitreous glass enamel iris is inspired by the Victorian Language of Flowers. I constructed the ring to be a more modern and sculptural signet in an effort to create a feminine yet slightly more substantial silhouette.”

Iris Signet with vitreous enamel and diamond accents in 18K yellow gold.

gwenbarba.com

$2,650

Linda Googe, Linda Hoj

“My Bacchanalia necklace was inspired by a crown worn by an angel in an 18th century painting, but I reimagined it as a necklace that women could wear as a contemporary statement piece.”

Bacchanalia necklace handcrafted in 22K gold with rose cut diamonds and
Yangtze River grey pearls.

indahoj.com

$20,500

Jenna Grosfeld, Jenna Blake

“The ring I have named Trophy Ring is a modern day cocktail ring inspired by designs from the 1950s through early 1960s when women changed their jewelry for the evening. The ring comes in a variety of colors that reflect stones used widely during that period — malachite, turquoise, and tiger eye. It is my absolute idea of ‘dress-up’ jewelry.”

Jenna Blake Trophy Ring in malachite, diamond and 18K yellow gold.

jennablake.com 

$16,000

Samantha Jackson, Heavenly Vices

“Celestial jewelry is a year-round favorite. And this pendant of the North Star is rife with symbolism throughout different time periods, representing direction, guidance, stability and steadfastness. I have added a new 14K gold diamond bezel on a diamond studded chain to elevate the love token with an elegant feeling.”

Enamel Lucky Star Love Token in 14K yellow gold and diamond bezel on diamond studded chain.

heavenlyvices.com

Price upon request

Shari Cohen, Seal & Scribe

“The French motto, ‘Plus ils s’eloignent, plus ils le serrent,’ translates to a most beautiful meaning: ‘Further they fly, the tighter the bond.’ I have modernized a Georgian era seal by molding and hand-casting the seal and creating a necklace with a diamond halo around it. It features two birds connected by an infinity knot, an elegant reminder of the powerful connection and deepening bonds that can develop when people are given the freedom to reach their highest potential.”

The Higher, The Tighter Deluxe Signature necklace in 18K recycled gold and available in yellow, rose or white gold with diamond accents.

sealandscribe.com

Price upon request

Monica RIch Kosann, Monica Rich Kosann

“What I love about taking diamonds from a vintage piece is that they already come with stories. Using them is an honor. Were they in a tiara or at a historical dinner? In these newly designed lockets, we used vintage diamonds and gave them life again. How lovely to continue telling their tales.”

Monica Rich Kosann 18K gold lockets with vintage diamonds.

monicarichkosann.com

From 11,000 to $15,950

What Ever Old Is New Again
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What Ever Old Is New Again

Jewelry continues to be inspired by the past with independent designers delving into different periods and different cultures from ancient civilizations to Georgian through Art Deco designs. Some are inspired by the actual jewels, others by techniques and still others by paintings of a particular time and all have constructed pieces that feel modern and relevant for today.

By Beth Bernstein

Taylor Russell in Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co clip earrings at the 2024 International Venice Film Festival that hark back to the clip earrings of the 1950s, early 60s. PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK