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In a time when personalization continues to become more popular than ever in jewelry, it’s no wonder that late 18th and early 19th century symbolic and sentimental jewelry — wearable expressions of luck, protection and affection — is a favorite not only among antique aficionados but also contemporary collectors. These personal adornments are steeped in significance and symbolism and take us as far back as ancient civilization. These pieces touch our hearts and speak to our own hopes and desires. To wear them is to convey a part of ourselves and renew a part of history. There is something magical about wearing these pieces, both authentic and re-interpreted, that connect us to the past and speak to our present and future. They are a welcome contrast to the modern way of communicating through text messages, emojis and social media. To look down at a ring encircling our finger that represents romance or to wear a pendant close to our heart with a meaningful motif is powerful and magical. How the symbolism translates into a tangible object has varied. This type of jewelry continues to endure and will always provide a sense of permanence and longevity, offering different meanings depending on each wearers’ circumstances and life.

Here we take a look at different popular motifs and types of jewelry, along with their significance then and now.

All antique jewelry photos courtesy of The Modern Guide To Jewellery (Beth Bernstein, ACC Artbooks 2022)

By Beth Bernstein

Acrostic jewelry spells out a term of endearment with the first letter of each gemstone. These jewels appeared in different motifs, from embellished hearts to simpler rings, often with beautiful shanks.

The modern versions can be shown in rings, necklaces and bracelets and spell out anything you desire.

Then: Bentley & Skinner’s acrostic ring that spells out REGARD, all gems in a closed-back setting, with open-work shoulders to a decorated ribbed shank in yellow gold, circa 1830.

Now: Erica Weiner’s made-to-order acrostic bezel set necklaces.

The Language of Flowers has a history that dates way back. But to simplify, in Victorian times a book was written with the meaning of almost every botanical variety, the most popular of which spoke to love (roses and tulips), faithfulness (ivy), a return to happiness (lilies of the valley) and innocence (daisies). Perhaps the two most popular were pansies (pensée in French, which means think and came to mean think of the giver in jewelry) and forget-me-nots, which were often set with turquoise as the stones were close to the color of the flower. Forget-me-nots meant to always think of the person who loved you, and thus gave you the jewels, but also depicted remembrance if a person had passed away.

Then: Métier Paris’ sentimental earrings enameled with pansies and forget-me-nots, English, circa 1840-1860s.

Now: Sofia Kaman’s pansy ring with enamel ornate shank and sapphires in the petals of the pansy meaning fidelity and loyalty.

Crescent Moons also have multiple meanings, from female empowerment to the sweet saying “I love you to the moon and back” or, in some cases, “I love you to the moon and stars and back.”

Then: Bentley & Skinner’s late Victorian ruby and diamond crescent brooch, with one row of graduating cushion-shaped rubies and a row of graduating old-cut diamonds set in silver, all on gold mount with brooch fitting, circa 1890.

Now: Jenna Blake turquoise and diamond puzzle crescent moon.

Swallows guided sailors safely, and as such, they began to mean “safe home.” They also mate for love and therefore had a second meaning of everlasting love.

Then: Glorious antique jewelry Victorian swallow turquoise brooch.

Now: Storrow Jewelry’s turquoise swallow charm.

Stars have several meanings. They guide you as they shine brightly in the night. You can wish up a lucky star and hopefully have your wish come true. Often the North Star was depicted in compasses as well, providing guidance and direction.

Then: Bentley & Skinner’s diamond star brooch with a larger center diamond surrounded by 12 diamond-set rays, all old-cut, all set in silver on yellow gold back with detachable brooch fittings, circa 1870.

Now: Selim Mouzannar’s Istanbul multistar earrings.

Hearts are perhaps the most iconic symbol of love. In Georgian and Victorian times, different configurations were used, such as two hearts tied together with a bow or ribbon or, at times, a crowned heart symbolizing love triumphant.

Then: Métier Paris’ “Flaming Heart” diamond and topaz ring, Portugal, circa 1770s.

Now: Talon’s 14K gold crowned heart pendant with small ruby accent for passion.

Snakes/Serpents can mean rebirth and renewal as the snake sheds its skin, but after Queen Victoria received a serpent engagement ring with her birthstone — emerald— in it its head, the concept came to mean enduring or everlasting love.

Then: Kentshire’s turquoise serpent necklace with diamond and garnet-set head, in 18K gold, circa 1860.

Now: Borgioni’s diamond and 18K yellow gold snake huggies.

Padlocks with a key in the shape of a heart loosely translate to, “You have the key to my heart.”

Then: Simon Teakle’s diamond and curb chain padlock late Victorian bracelet, circa 1980.

Now: Circa 1700 workable padlock with diamonds and rubies and heart key.

A horseshoe is one of the most recognizable symbols of luck, and it continues to be a popular motif in modern jewelry with a nod to past settings and design elements.

Then: Bentley & Skinner’s Victorian Locket with triple entwined horseshoes in fine gemstones, circa 1860.

Now: Jenna Blake’s selection of horseshoes in different sizes and colors.

Then and Now: Symbolic and Sentimental Jewelry from the 1900s Is Influencing Modern Designers

Then and Now: Symbolic and Sentimental Jewelry from the 1900s Is Influencing Modern Designers

In a time when personalization continues to become more popular than ever in jewelry, it’s no wonder that late 18th and early 19th century symbolic and sentimental jewelry — wearable expressions of luck, protection and affection — is a favorite not only among antique aficionados but also contemporary collectors. These personal adornments are steeped in significance and symbolism and take us as far back as ancient civilization. These pieces touch our hearts and speak to our own hopes and desires. To wear them is to convey a part of ourselves and renew a part of history. There is something magical about wearing these pieces, both authentic and re-interpreted, that connect us to the past and speak to our present and future. They are a welcome contrast to the modern way of communicating through text messages, emojis and social media. To look down at a ring encircling our finger that represents romance or to wear a pendant close to our heart with a meaningful motif is powerful and magical. How the symbolism translates into a tangible object has varied. This type of jewelry continues to endure and will always provide a sense of permanence and longevity, offering different meanings depending on each wearers’ circumstances and life.

Here we take a look at different popular motifs and types of jewelry, along with their significance then and now.

All antique jewelry photos courtesy of The Modern Guide To Jewellery (Beth Bernstein, ACC Artbooks 2022)

By Beth Bernstein